DON'T TEAR YOUR LAWN OUT! There are easier ways to survive this drought.

Higher temps and lack of water can cause folks to resort to drastic measures, such as tearing out lawns and gardens. But there’s no need to go to that extreme.  Check out these tips for saving water and your lawn:

Improve the soil

• Use compost as a mulch in shrub/flower beds to add organic matter to the soil, project the soil, insulate it from high temperatures and retain moisture.

• Aerate and top-dress the lawn with compost to increase the ability of soil to absorb and retain moisture.

• Replace water-intensive plants with drought-tolerant ones and add compost to the soil when planting to improve moisture retention.

• Use compost as a mulch in shrub/flower beds to add organic matter to the soil, project the soil, insulate it from high temperatures and retain moisture.

Make your irrigation system more efficient.

• Check your sprinkler timer cycles.  Does water run off after 20 minutes?  If so, shorten the duration of the cycle and increase the number of cycles.

• If water runs off, shorten the duration of the cycle.

• Install a smart controller with a moisture sensor.  The system will water only when the lawn really needs it.

• Adjust the sprinkler heads so they spray only on the lawn, not pavement or flower beds.

• Replace spray heads with rotors which are more efficient.

• Install separate lines for shrubs/flower beds with fewer cycles and longer duration.

• Install drip lines or soaker hoses for shrubs/flower beds.

 For more info visit us on Facebook email info@harvestblendcompost.com or call (805)925-2771

Drought Conditions Call for Healthy Soil!

With persisting drought conditions and water shortages here in California, drought-tolerant  
landscaping is definitely the way to go. While planting drought-resistant plants and water conservation are important factors, truly drought-tolerant landscapes begin with the soil.

For plants, grass and trees to be able to thrive in drought conditions, they require nutrient-rich soil that is properly aerated and able to disperse water efficiently. To prepare soil for a water-wise landscape, you should first till and loosen soil roughly a foot deep. Highly compacted soil makes it difficult for roots to spread. It also makes it harder for water to penetrate the soil adequately before it evaporates. Important to keep in mind is the fact that healthy soil is as important to landscapes comprised of rocks and cacti as it is to those with lawns, shrubs and flower beds.

Once the ground has been loosened the addition of compost, rich in organic matter, will provide the nutrients your plants need to grow healthy and lush even in tough conditions. Soil straight from your backyard just won’t do the job, neither will just any compost off the shelf of your local garden supply center. All compost is not created equal. As a result of the variety of organic materials that go into the compost feedstock, there can be a wide variability in the characteristics and quality of compost products. As a result, you may ask, “How do I buy compost that meets my landscaping needs?”

One answer is to purchase only compost that complies with the terms and conditions of the USCC’s Seal of Testing Assurance [STA] Program. This will provide you with the information that you need in order to make an informed buying decision

Ideally, you should prepare your soil and complete your planting before the hottest and driest parts of the year. If your plants have time to develop a healthy and deep root base before the hottest and driest parts of the summer, they will be stronger and better able to withstand drought conditions.

After you have prepared your soil and completed your planting, you should then cover the ground with a thick carpet of mulch. Not only will mulch reduce the number of weeds that will use up water and nutrients, it will prevent the water from evaporating at ground level before it has time to penetrate the soil.

Because almost all drought tolerant plants have a vast, far-reaching taproot that seeks water out deep below the soil’s surface, well-amended soil is a must when planting a drought-tolerant garden. Compost must be added to native soil if drought-tolerant plants are to survive. Even if you are planting a sloped area, adding 1 or 2 inches of compost to native soil is imperative; water must soak deep into the soil where, in times of drought, plants’ taproot systems can have access. Adding Harvest Blend Compost to your native soil will greatly improve the texture, aeration and draining capacity, so this should be your first priority when planting a water-wise garden. Naturally!

For more info email info@harvestblendcompost.com or call (805)925-2771

 

OM = Organic Material, Important in Building Healthy Soil

If your soil and turf are healthy, you might think that the soil would be able to generate its own organic content. This is not necessarily true. The ideal soil is open and crumbly, giving the grass roots plenty of room to grow full and deep. When digging, you should find a large population of earthworms and microbes; these are the good guys in your soil. When earthworms, microbes and roots die off they decompose, raising the soils’ organic levels for new soil life. This cycle is referred to as the Soil Food Web, where roots, earthworms, and microbes are constantly recycling themselves.

Truly healthy soil has between 3% and 5% organic material. That level can be maintained ONLY IF organic matter is added to the soil at the surface year in and year out. Plants, earthworms, and microbes need that extra matter to support healthy soil. In the woods and grasslands, that added organic matter came from dead leaves or dead grasses decomposing each year. We need to repeat that process in our lawns to be able to maintain a healthy organic content in our soil.

Very few residential landscapes have soil this rich with organic material. The truth is soil beneath our lawns typically contains less than 1% organic material. This is because over a ten or twenty year period not only was no new organic material introduced, but the main source of these materials such as leaves and grass clippings have been collected and transported to local landfills. What a waste!

Healthy soil needs a steady supply of new organic material. It’s constantly decomposing, adding nutrients for the grass and plants, and must be replaced. Decomposed grass clippings and other organic material don’t have much food value left, but they’re valuable in aerating the soil, storing water and in feeding key microorganisms needed for other tasks. Leaving grass clippings on the lawn might provide some organic material; it is not enough to consistently provide 3 or 5 %. This is why we need to add more.

How can we add extra organic matter, you ask?

The solution is simple, and one you may not be familiar with; top dressing. Top dressing a lawn is the process of adding a fine layer of quality compost to your lawn. The quick & easy method involves simply working the compost into the grass with the back of a landscaper’s rake or a stiff broom (making sure not to smother grass with compost) and watering thoroughly. In only a few days, you’ll notice your lawn taking on a strong, healthy appearance; greening up where before there were patches of brown grass.

The “Professional” method is the same process with one exception; aerate soil before adding compost. If you have an irrigation system you’ll need to make it’s marked with flags before aeration (don’t want to poke holes in pipes now, do we?) Then proceed as you would for the quick & easy method, making sure to water well when finished. When you top dress your lawn with compost, this organic material eventually begins to decompose. More important, the earthworms seek it out and pull it down into the soil and eat it. 

If you don’t regularly top dress your lawn, it’s high time to begin. It might sound like extra work, but it’ll pay off big time in contributing to the development of healthy soil; stimulating soil life to provide nutrients and opening soil structure so it holds air and moisture.

Harvest Blend Compost contains premium organic matter necessary to raise soils’ organic levels to the recommended 5%. Locally produced from quality, recycled organic materials, Harvest Blend Compost has passed the strictest testing methods to carry the Seal of Testing Assurance (STA) label. This means our products are free of weed seeds and pathogens, guaranteeing product safety for your lawn and garden.

Healthy soil translates into healthier grass. Growing in soil with 5% organic content, lawns can expand their considerable root systems, reaching deep into the soil to tap more dependable supplies of water and nutrients. They are more self-reliant, less dependent on us for nutrition and moisture. They do not suffer stress. The result is fewer problems with weeds, diseases and pests. Naturally!

For all the details on Top dressing and Harvest Blend Compost and all its benefits, go to www.GotCompost.com or call us at 805-925-2771.

 

 

 

Winter Planting on the Central Coast

With the holidays over, and some pretty nice temps, we can’t wait to get back to ‘work’ in the garden! While gardeners on the East Coast and in the Midwest may be busy trying to dig out of the snow and just dreaming of spring planting while looking at seed catalogs or online, gardeners here can still be actively enjoying their gardens.  Besides the usual garden cleanup - leaves to rake, pruning and dormant spraying of trees and bushes, gardeners on the Central Coast can still enjoy planting cool season crops.  Many people think nothing much can be planted in what seems to be the dead of winter, but there are a surprising number of things that can be put in the ground this time of year besides the usual bare root roses.

 

In the vegetable garden, we can plant asparagus, globe artichokes and rhubarb from roots and broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower from transplants, if you can find them in a nursery or garden center. Unfortunately the selection of vegetable plants available at local outlets is limited, so you might consider starting your own transplants from seed next year or get a head start on spring planting this year.  Carrots, kohlrabi, lettuce, parsley, peas, radishes and turnips can all be planted from seed.  Yes, I did say lettuce, which will tolerate some frost and can be grown all winter long in our area.  Think of fresh lettuce from your own garden, tender and sweet, not that stuff from the grocery store.  Leaf lettuce is the best bet, and most rewarding.  Did you know that head lettuce (aka Iceberg) was developed in the 1890's?  Iceberg became successful because its firm, round shape and long shelf life made it good for shipping long distances – for the first time people could have lettuce for salads the year around, not just summer.  The downside is that head lettuce just doesn't have the flavor of leaf lettuce, which tastes best when fresh.  Our favorite is a Bibb variety called Tom Thumb which produces sweet and tender miniature heads perfect an individual salad.  Just add a little dressing and enjoy!

 

A word about compost -

 

When planting, always add compost to your soil.  It is the best investment you can make in your garden and an essential step in garden preparation. Compost adds organic matter to your soil, increases water holding capacity, adds nutrients and improves soil health.  If you are preparing a garden bed, apply a layer of 2 to 4 inches of compost and work it into the soil before planting.  For planting bare root shrubs or trees (rose bushes, fruit trees, berries, etc.) add compost to the soil as you refill the hole in which you are plating them.  Add compost and watch your garden grow!

 

For all the details, visit Harvest Blend Compost or email info@harvestblendcompost.com

 

 

 

 

 

"KETCHUP" on the Million Tomato Campaign (pun intended)

Back in April we shared news of the US Composting Council’s Million Tomato Compost

Campaign - a nationwide drive to boost the soil health and growing power of community gardens across the country – just by adding compost to the soil.
Since then, the team from E&G and Harvest Blend has joined with 10 Central Coast community gardens; donating more than 2,500 cubic feet of premium Harvest Blend Compost, nearly 1,000 tomato seedlings (plus additional veggie transplants and gardening supplies) to this project!

Of course the main focus of the campaign was to grow fresh, healthy produce for donation to local food banks, and we’re happy to report some gardens will be harvesting soon, but there’s another side to this story. We’ve watched organic matter (in the form of compost) transform dry, compacted areas of land into nutrient rich soil; creating productive gardens that will soon be bursting with ripe, red tomatoes!

 

Participating in this campaign has been exciting and rewarding, and we thank all the hard working men, women and children who’ve joined together to help us reach our goal. Folks at the US Composting Council will keep us posted on ‘The Count,’ and let us know when we’ve reached ONE MILLION TOMATOES, so stay tuned.

Email for more info on this program, or to find out if your community garden qualifies for a compost donation.

 

 

 

 

PROTECT PLANTS FROM SUMMER HEAT - MULCH!

Summer has arrived on the Central Coast! We may enjoy the warm (hot!) weather but our overheated lawns and gardens need protection from soaring temps. In other words, it’s time to mulch.

Mulch is any material that protects the soil surface and allows air and water through. Organic mulches –mulches derived from plant materials, such as compost –not only protect the soil but add nutrients over time while enriching overall soil composition.

Mulch reduces evaporation from the soil surface, moderates soil temperature, and insulates roots from summer heat (and winter cold). Mulch suppresses weeds, reduces soil compaction, prevents erosion, and adds organic matter to the soil.

Summer mulch -

Apply 2-3” of compost around plants at midsummer to protect plants from hot weather and reduce the soil temperature by 10°F or more. Soil temperatures greater than 85°F can slow plant growth. The temperature of soil under mulch changes much more slowly.

Mulch protects bare soil from being compacted over time by the drying of soil particles in the sun and the beating of rain or irrigation. A thin layer of mulch will protect soil microorganisms and other beneficial soil borne organisms from cooking in the summer heat.

Almost all plants benefit from the protection of mulch. Vegetables that most benefit from summer mulching are eggplants, tomatoes, cauliflower, celery, potatoes, currants, and gooseberries. These crops especially appreciate cool, loose, well-drained soil.

Applying mulch -

Two cubic feet of compost mulch can cover an area of 8 square feet to 3 inches deep; one cubic yard of compost mulch covers an area of 108 square feet to 3 inches deep.

Mulch should be applied loosely and not compacted. Mulch should be kept back a few inches from the stems or crowns of plants and trunks of trees. If placed too closely, mulch can retain moisture and cause plant stems and trunks to rot.

Water can be delivered to plant roots through mulch into the soil. Drips systems set under mulch will more directly apply water to the root zone. Mulch can control insects and diseases, reducing or eliminating the spread of fungal spores often spread by the splashing of irrigation water or rain.

For more info visit GotCompost.com 

Here Comes the Sun!

It’s June 21, summer solstice! The first day of summer and the longest day of the year! 

In sunny California, we should enjoy balmy temps until September or October; but gardeners must consider one more factor - the number of actual daylight hours. 

Less sunlight during the day means soil has to rely on stored heat to maintain proper conditions to support plant growth. Simply speaking, when the weather is warm plants will grow a little faster and when it’s cold they will grow a little slower, but the one consistent factor affecting plant growth is the change in day length. 

For example – if you’re planting lettuce and you want to harvest lettuce every week:

• During summer and fall, your planting would be five or six days apart.
• In late winter and spring your plantings would be ten or twelve days apart. 

Of course this is just an example; if you plan on evenly spacing your garden harvest, there are a number of internet references that can take the guess work out of planting.

Before getting started be sure to check the condition of your soil. Working a few inches of Harvest Blend Compost into garden plots will building healthy soil for fresh, healthy vegetables.

Now get out there and enjoy this lovely summer weather; enjoy prepping, planting and picking!

For more info, feel free to contact one of our field reps, or visit GotCompost.com

FRESH TOMATOES - Enjoy the fruits of your labor!

Homegrown tomatoes VS store bought varieties – there’s just no contest. We make due with lower quality supermarket specials when necessary but come spring and summer, we have no excuse to settle for less.

Temps are perfect for tomato planting now, so let’s get growing!

• Check local garden centers for a selection of tomato transplants. If you have a certain tomato in mind and are unable to find seedlings, check out the seed dept. for heirloom and specialty types. Growing from seed will lengthen the process, so unless you just have to just have that "Darby Pink-Yellow Striped" Heirloom variety, you’re better off planting a reliable ‘Early Girl’ transplant.
• Now that you have your tomato seedlings in hand, it’s time to plant! Choose a site that gets full sun and has soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Tomatoes need plenty of warmth to taste their best - give growing plants protection from cool breezes with a windbreak of trees, a garden wall or a vine-covered trellis.
• Plants need a healthy foundation, so make sure to amend the soil with plenty of compost. Tomatoes need soil rich in organic matter, and the best, most affordable method of increasing soil organic matter is through a good application of compost.
• Harden off seedlings, whether store-bought or homegrown, and move them to the garden when nighttime temperatures remain above 50 degrees F.
• Dig a hole the size of a basketball for each plant. Add a shovelful of compost to each hole.
• Set the plants 12 to 18 inches apart depending on variety (see the seed packet or plant label). Plant them deeply - up to the fourth branch from the top - to encourage new root development.
• Place a paper collar around each plant to deter cutworms, and cover the plants with cloches or floating row covers to protect them from insects and cool temperatures.
• Remove the covers when the weather has warmed, mulch the soil and install any supports the plants will need as they grow.
• Make sure plants get between one and two inches of water every two weeks after transplanting; after the first flowers appear; when the fruits reach the size of golf balls and when you spot the first ripe tomato.
• And finally - pick tomatoes when their color is glossy and even, and their texture midway between soft and firm.

We don’t have to tell you what to do next, do we? Enjoy your tasty tomatoes fresh from the garden, as the 'T' in a BLT or as a fresh topping for homemade pizza.

Need compost for your garden? Contact one of our helpful Field Reps at 805.925.2771

 

 

 

Follow @chefnathanlyon and @gotcompost

Check out USCC's #MillionTomatoes compost campaign

Can You Dig It - Twice?

Double Digging, just like it sounds, is the process of digging a plot of ground to twice the normal depth and transferring soil from the lower level to the top in order to revitalize it before planting.

Double digging helps the soil hold more water, improves aeration and places organic material at a depth that enables plant roots to fully extend. The technique of double digging and adding compost to build humus and soil fertility, is described as "growing the soil."

Double Dig Instructions

1. Dig a trench one shovel-length deep (nine or ten inches) and the length of your planting area.
2. Pile the soil in a wheelbarrow. You can also place soil in front of first trench, although the wheelbarrow method makes it easier to transport to last trench at end of double dig.
3. Loosen the soil at the bottom of the trench another nine to ten inches. (Spading fork works great for this)
4. Add organic material, such as compost, and using a spading fork, thoroughly mix compost into the subsoil.
5. Dig a second trench parallel to the first and repeat steps 2 and 3.
6. Use the topsoil from the second trench to fill the first one, adding more organic matter and mixing it in.
7. Repeat the procedure until you've dug, enriched and amended the entire planting area.
8. Fill the last trench with the topsoil you put in the wheelbarrow when you dug the first trench, enriching it with organic matter as you did before.

We know, the process of double digging involves more time and muscle, but your efforts will be rewarded when you harvest the tastiest, healthiest vegetables ever!

STA Certified Harvest Blend Compost is the perfect soil amendment; supplying vital nutrients and oxygen; improving soil structure and water-holding capacity, creating a healthy foundation for gardens and landscapes. Naturally! Click for a dealer near you.

 

When Life Hands You Lemon Trees - Prune 'Em!

Lemon trees grow fast but that doesn’t mean we have to let them rule the yard. Pruning is vital to maintaining a healthy tree (and they’re very forgiving), so if you make what you feel was a major mistake, fear not. Give it a little time and the tree will grow past it. 

So why go to the trouble of pruning a lemon tree? To improve the health, beauty and growth of the tree, of course! Removing branches that appear sickly will stimulate growth in sparse areas of the tree, slowing down unwanted growth and conserving energy for fruit production.

This is also your chance to shape the tree any way you like (remember, it’s a forgiving tree.) Cut any sucker growth from below the graft and any growth on the trunk up to the first main branch.  Trim any branches that are growing cross ways in the tree and clean out branches in the center of the tree so air can circulate and light can get in. Click for a glossary of prunning terms.

Remove the growth that grows straight out of the top of the tree. Trim the limbs that hang down around the lower part of the tree so the 'skirt' of the tree is a couple feet above the ground. Most of your fruit will come from growth that has occurred in the last couple of years. By opening the center of the tree you will get bloom and fruit on the inside that is excellent quality.

Now, back up and look at the tree - if you can still see a few stray branches that need trimming, give 'em a *snip, snip* and you’re finished. When all looks good, take a seat, pour a glass of fresh lemonade and enjoy the view!

Of course, it's always a good idea to spread some high quality Harvest Blend Compost around the base of the tree to replenish soil organic matter, adding nutrients and increasing soil structure. Click for more info.

Bare-Root Roses - It's Now or Never (or next year)

With the planting season continuing through February, there's still time to buy bare-root plants. Those of us on the central coast can find a nice selection of bare-root roses at local garden and landscape centers on the Central Coast.

When you're ready to plant, follow these instructions to ensure healthy plants and vibrant blooms:

Prune any broken of dead stems and soak plants in a bucket of water for an hour or so before planting.  Dig a hole twice the size of the root length, mix compost into the soil you remove from the hole and build a small hill at the bottom of the hole, spread the roots evenly around the hill and fill the hole with the compost-amended soil.  Spread its roots, then backfill while adding water. Firm the soil around the plant. Note - Adding organic matter to soil supplies oxygen and nutrients important for a healthy root system.

Make sure the rose bush is planted at the same level in the new hole as it was in the ground originally (the bark will be lighter below the ground level on the trunk).  Build a basin around the plant and water thoroughly to settle soil. 

Last but not least, place a 2 inch layer of compost around the base of the rose as a mulch to conserve moisture, add organic matter and protect the soil. Naturally!

Click for more on compost uses and benefits│Need expert help? Contact Jim or Chuck

 

Plan BEFORE You Plant

Most seed packets offer planting recommendations – advice that is definitely there for your plants’ health! Make sure to check planting info regarding ‘frost dates.’ Yes, frost does happen in warmer climates, like California, so don’t go thinking your landscape is exempt from the cold.

This advice is important to follow since one frosty night can totally destroy tender seedlings. But how do you know when there's no more chance of frost?

Check out Victory Seeds' super easy to use calendar! All you have to do is click on your state for a list of larger cities and their average first and last frost dates.

Spring and fall frost dates are based on averages compiled over time. But remember—the type of frost those averages are referring to is known as a light frost/freeze, which means 29°F to 32°F.

Those of you in the know are aware there are plants that can be sown as soon as the soil is ready to be worked; spinach, peas and onions can withstand cooler soil temps. But you’ll need to wait for soil to warm up, and there’s no chance of frost, before planting tomatoes and peppers.

Note – soil takes a beating during winter months; cold temps and rain can destroy vital soil organic matter, leaving few nutrients behind to nourish growing plants. The easiest and most affordable fix is to add bulk compost to soil – allowing hard-working little microbes to build healthy soil for spring and summer gardens. Harvest Blend Compost is the perfect solution for problem soils! Click for a dealer near you.

If your efforts were too late (or too little) to protect plants from a frost, your first reaction will probably be to cut off the damaged parts of the plants. Do your best not to trim dead stuff, since these damaged leaves and stems will provide a little insulation from cooler temps. Hey, you’ll have to go back and re-prune your plants in spring anyway.

For more compost info please visit www.GotCompost.com

Feel free to contact Jim or Chuck for expert advice. Naturally!

Mulch in Winter- Protect Soil & Plants

Nearing the end of December, it’s supposed to be cold…right? And when you’re cold, what do you do to make life more comfy? Put on a cozy coat or sweater, maybe snuggle under a blanket? Whatever your choice of ‘cover up,’ you probably do NOT tough it out and dress as though it were summer. Our trees, flowers and soil deserve the same consideration - and how do we accomplish this? One word – mulch.

Mulch (noun) is “a protective covering of organic material laid over the soil and around plants to prevent erosion, retain moisture, and enrich the soil.” Mulch acts as an overcoat for soil and plants; providing protection, insulation and natural, chemical-free weed control. Materials such as leaves, bark, straw, newspaper, compost and even plastic, may be used as mulch. Only one of these offers great potential for restoring ecological processes to degraded soils, while diverting a valuable natural resource from landfills – and that is compost.

Applying compost and mulch to the landscape increases soil organic matter (S.O.M); providing vital nutrients that create structure and pore spaces - allowing soil to easily soak up excess rain water. This helps reduce runoff from lawns and gardens during storms, which can help reduce flooding, sewer overflows, and erosion. Improving your soil can also save you money by reducing summer irrigation needs because plants grow deeper roots and the soil holds more water. Healthier plants have fewer pest and disease problems and need less fertilizer, so you’ll need fewer chemicals, which is good for your family’s health and our environment. The beneficial soil organisms (fed by compost and mulch) also break down pollutants and help move carbon dioxide (a greenhouse gas) from the atmosphere into long-term storage in the soil.

Three steps to building healthy soil:

1) Amend the soil with compost

• Dig or till 2-4 inches of compost into the upper 6-8 inches of soil when preparing beds or new lawn areas for planting. Amend the whole bed. Amending just the planting holes can limit root growth.
• Top dressing - improve existing lawns by aerating, then raking ¼ to ½ inch of compost in, spring or fall.

2) Mulch existing plantings regularly

• Spread mulch in the spring or fall, to control weeds and conserve water, reduce runoff, and prevent erosion (keep 1 inch away from tree trunks). Renew mulch layers annually.
• On garden beds and around shallow-rooted annuals, mulch with 1-2 inches of compost, shredded leaves, or grass clippings.
• Around trees and woody perennials, use 2-4 inches of wood chips (from a tree service) or leaves. Medium-sized bark mulch (fine bark can repel water) is a second choice.
• Save your fall leaves, or gather them for free – they’re a great mulch for most plants.
• Use conifer tree needles as a mulch around conifer trees, or around acid-loving plants.
• Mulch-mow (leave the clippings) on your lawn, to build denser turf, deeper roots, and a drought resistant, healthy lawn.

3) Avoid using chemicals, and choose organic or slow-release fertilizers

• Pesticides (weed and bug killers) like “weed-and-feed” may hurt beneficial soil life, wildlife, and our families’ health too – use the resources below to find better alternatives.
• Over-fertilization with quick-release chemical fertilizers is also bad for soil life, and harms our lakes and streams by causing algae blooms. (The algae later dies, and uses up oxygen in the water as it decomposes, suffocating fish).
• Fertilize moderately (compost can replace most fertilizer needs), and look for the words “natural organic” or “slow-release” on the fertilizer bag. They cost a little more but they feed plants a long time, and they don’t wash away in the first rainstorm.

When purchasing compost for your lawn or garden, be sure it's USCC STA Certified compost - preferably BULK (less expensive and no plastic bags to clog the landfill)

Questions? Expert answers are a call or click away!

 

August │Enjoy Your Harvest

Yep, it’s a fun month for Central Coast gardeners. Now is when we get to enjoy the fruits (and vegetables) of our labor; juicy tomatoes, tasty corn, crisp lettuce and more. August is traditionally the month to harvest delicious summer crops, but it's also the time to start planning for a fall garden.  

To get the best yield out of your garden make sure to pick veggies regularly to stimulate growth and ensure they’ll produce through fall. Water is important now; so get out there and check for moisture in soil around zucchini, squash and tomato plants and you will enjoy an almost continuous supply of vegetables during August.

Plant Your Fall and Winter Vegetables: It's too late to plant summer crops, but it is the perfect time to plant seeds or transplants that produce cool-season vegetables such as green onions, carrots, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, mustard, radishes and beets. Seeds and young plants will thrive in the warm summer soil. If you’ll be planting seeds in flats, put the flats in partial shade to avoid the direct summer heat. Transplant the seedlings into the garden when they are about 4 inches tall.

Of course before planting, you'll want to make sure soil contains the recommended 5% Soil Organic Matter (SOM). This is an easy fix; simply amend soil with Harvest Blend Compost for the healthiest foundation possible. Plants will thrive!

Water Smart: Even drought tolerant and native plants need plenty of water in the heat of summer. Give them a good soak at least twice a week. Potted plants are especially susceptible to high temperatures. If they still wilt after daily watering, think about moving the pots to shade or partial shade locations until the weather cools. Water in the early morning hours to reduce evaporation and water longer so the water has a chance to travel deeper into the soil. Cover your soil with a layer of mulch (compost) to retain moisture. Naturally!

Protect Fruit From Predators: Put bird netting on fruit trees two or three weeks before the fruit begins to ripen. This will keep birds from feasting on the tree fruit. Use rocks or bricks to hold down the netting so birds, rabbits or squirrels can't accidentally get trapped inside.

Plant for Color and Fragrance: August is a good time to plant bushes and trees that add color and fragrance to your garden just about year round. For a dash of color, consider begonia, impatiens, oleander, Chinese hibiscus and firebush. For fragrance, plant gardenias, jasmine and lilac.

Visit www.GotCompost.com for more info.

GOT MULCH? Mulching protects plants from heat

Here on the Central Coast we seem to be experiencing a minor heat wave; this means a little extra TLC is needed for landscapes and gardens. Without some human help, a heat wave can wipe out a vegetable garden in just a couple of days.

The high temperatures of a heat wave damage a plant in several ways. First, there's the evaporation of soil moisture, which robs the roots of water. A heat wave will also dehydrate a plant by extracting moisture through the leaves and stem. Finally, the hot rays of the sun can sunburn the leaves, turning them a pale yellow-to-tan color which eventually die and fall off. Protecting your vegetable garden from a heat wave means slowing down the loss of water and minimizing sun damage. Here's how it's done:

Mulch, mulch, mulch │ Mulch is more than a pretty way to decorate a garden. It actually serves an important function in shading tender roots from the sun and slowing the evaporation of ground moisture. Mulch doesn't have to be expensive or fancy to work – bark, newspaper, straw, leaves, grass clippings and compost are affordable and do a great job. Just make sure to keep bark and compost a few inches away from the base of trees and shrubs to discourage insects.

Compost as mulch │ Applying compost to garden beds is a win/win. Not only are plants and soil protected from the elements, compost adds vital nutrients to the soil; increasing porosity and water holding capacity, encouraging a healthy root system. Premium STA Certified Harvest Blend Compost is the perfect choice; Naturally! Click for a map of our trusty dealers

Change how you water │ A vegetable garden can basically be watered in two ways, either at ground level or overhead. During a heat wave, overhead watering with an oscillating or other type of sprinkler head should be avoided. The combination of high temperatures and a hot sun can evaporate up to 90% of that water even before it hits the ground. A better watering solution is to use a soaker hose system, watering through channels, or hand watering the roots.

Other changes that need to be made include -

• Increasing the watering times to twice a day until the temps dip below 90 degrees.
• Avoid watering between 10 am and 7 pm, unless you have a soaker system or irrigation channels. Overhead watering when the sun is beating down on your plants can scald the leaves and kill them.
• Deep water when possible. Deep watering encourages deeper root growth.

Provide shade if possible. To protect more vulnerable vegetable plants, we set up a canopy to shade tender veggies during a heat wave. If you don't own a canopy, sheets draped over 5 foot bamboo stakes can also provide some plant relief.

Plants and soil sometimes need a little extra help from their human caretakers; and periods of extreme heat and/or cold are 2 of those occasions. For more info on compost uses and benefits, visit www.GotCompost.com or Like us on Facebook.

An Ounce of Prevention...



Microbe rich Harvest Blend Compost

Healthy soil takes a long time to develop naturally.
However, it can all be destroyed in a single planting season or with a just one landscaping endeavor. Basic soil conservation is like preventative medicine: The better you are at keeping soil healthy, the fewer drastic measures you have to take down the road to keep your garden or lawn thriving. You know the old saying, ‘An ounce of prevention...’

Soil quality should be a concern to everyone on the planet. Whether you're a suburbanite looking for a perfect lawn or a fifth-generation farmer looking for the perfect harvest; the nature and quality of your soil are among the most important factors in your success. All soils contain a mixture of organic and inorganic matter, but their proportions and characteristics vary from place to place.

Topsoil

Topsoil is the upper layer of soil in a given area. It typically contains sand, silt and clay in varying proportions, which can account for as little as 40 percent or as much as 80 percent of the soil's bulk. Sandy soils are loose and drain well, but they retain water poorly. Silt soils compact and become dense, while clay soils can become hard and drain poorly. All of these characteristics can be modified if there is enough organic matter in the topsoil. Some of this organic matter is fully decomposed, and some is actively decomposing.

Organic Matter Soil

Above the topsoil, at ground level, is a thin layer composed almost entirely of organic matter. It's made up of varying materials, such as thatch in grasslands and leaf mold in forests. This layer is constantly decomposing as bacteria, fungi, worms and insects digest it and transform it into rich humus. Through the normal passage of time and the activity of soil-based organisms, this organic material slowly becomes incorporated into the topsoil beneath it. We can speed up this process by adding organic matter to this layer as mulch or by adding finished humus to the soil in the form of mature compost.

Organic Matter and Drainage

Soils with increased organic matter are proven to maintain consistently superior drainage. The addition of compost acts as a sponge, creating air pockets where water can seep in and be retained. This is beneficial to all types of soil. Compost improves a sandy soil's ability to retain moisture, reducing the need for irrigation. In hard-packed silt or clay, adding compost will soften and lighten the soil. This allows water to seep in and be absorbed, or "infiltrated," rather than pooling on the surface to create runoff and wastewater. This reduces both erosion and water use, two important environmental benefits.

If you have areas of soil that puddle and won’t drain, don’t give up. Here’s a relatively simple method to drain water from soggy soil – after which you can proceed with soil amendment.

Items you will need:

1.     Shovel

2.     Perforated drainpipe

3.     Compost

4.     Fertilizer

5.     Tiller

Step 1:

Drain the soil if it collects standing water, which will make gardening more productive and help prevent erosion. Locate the lowest spot in the area that needs draining, and then find a low spot below that area, wherever the water seems to drain to. Dig a trench and install a perforated drainpipe running downslope from one spot to the other. Surround the pipe with gravel to prevent dirt from clogging the perforations.

Step 2:

Stay off wet soil. Do not walk or drive on wet soil or do anything that packs it down. Compacted soil prevents air and water from flowing through, which eliminates room for roots to grow.

Step 3:

Mix compost into sandy soil to improve nitrogen levels and bring a greater yield of crops and plants.

Step 4:

Fertilize your soil wisely. Use organic fertilizers designed to meet the needs of the soil in your particular region. Follow the instructions on the container carefully and do not apply more fertilizer than is suggested.

Step 5:

Till the soil at the proper time. Tilling the soil when it is wet causes it to clump, which destroys the soil's composition. Soil that crumbles in your hand is ready to till.

Soil Biology

The physical properties of organic matter soil, and their importance as a portion of the topsoil, are only part of the larger picture. Soil Organic Matter (SOM) is also crucial to soil's ecosystem. Billions of bacteria, fungi, nematodes, insects, worms and other organisms that make up the Soil Foodweb, feed on fresh organic material, leaving nutrient rich compost in its place. The more varied and plentiful these organisms are, the healthier the soil. A thriving, biologically diverse soil provides more nutrients to plants, doing away with harmful pathogens; helping to build healthy soil. Naturally!

For more info visit http://www.gotcompost.com/

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