The Soil and Water Connection

The soil-water connection is a real one, for a healthy soil, rich in organic matter, not only has a dramatic impact on the reduction of runoff volumes, but also captures and degrades pollutants before they have an opportunity to foul ground and surface water.

 

In 1997, the U.S. Composting Council (USCC) published The Soil and Water Connection as an easy-to-use document that would explain the connection of soil to water, as well as the fundamentals of composting.  In essence, it was The Farmer’s Almanac of the composting world. Since that time, public opinion has steered in a positive direction and an increase in organics for environmental applications (as well as the results) can be seen. The composting industry has also evolved in its techniques and the various ways in which compost can be applied. This makes now the perfect time for a second edition, and the USCC has done just that. The Soil and Water Connection: A Watershed Manager’s Guide to Organics is an updated booklet that takes the original’s message and applies it to today’s world. 

The first half of The Soil and Water Connection focuses on the environmental problems of soil degradation and water pollution, the harmful effects they are having on the environment and what compost application can do to change all that. From there its goes on to explain just what compost is, its processes and what makes it so valuable to soil and water. Finally, the guide describes what can be done to prevent these problems, as well as composting’s role going forward.  

Engel & Gray and Harvest Blend Compost are dedicated to collecting, composting, and recycling organic materials into nutrient rich compost products, ready to build healthy soil and plants. With nearly 25 years of experience in composting, Harvest Blend Compost is a proud supporter of the USCC and the US Composting Council’s Research & Education Foundation. For more info call us at 805-925-2771 or visit www.gotcompost.com

 

DON'T TEAR YOUR LAWN OUT! There are easier ways to survive this drought.

Higher temps and lack of water can cause folks to resort to drastic measures, such as tearing out lawns and gardens. But there’s no need to go to that extreme.  Check out these tips for saving water and your lawn:

Improve the soil

• Use compost as a mulch in shrub/flower beds to add organic matter to the soil, project the soil, insulate it from high temperatures and retain moisture.

• Aerate and top-dress the lawn with compost to increase the ability of soil to absorb and retain moisture.

• Replace water-intensive plants with drought-tolerant ones and add compost to the soil when planting to improve moisture retention.

• Use compost as a mulch in shrub/flower beds to add organic matter to the soil, project the soil, insulate it from high temperatures and retain moisture.

Make your irrigation system more efficient.

• Check your sprinkler timer cycles.  Does water run off after 20 minutes?  If so, shorten the duration of the cycle and increase the number of cycles.

• If water runs off, shorten the duration of the cycle.

• Install a smart controller with a moisture sensor.  The system will water only when the lawn really needs it.

• Adjust the sprinkler heads so they spray only on the lawn, not pavement or flower beds.

• Replace spray heads with rotors which are more efficient.

• Install separate lines for shrubs/flower beds with fewer cycles and longer duration.

• Install drip lines or soaker hoses for shrubs/flower beds.

 For more info visit us on Facebook email info@harvestblendcompost.com or call (805)925-2771

Drought Conditions Call for Healthy Soil!

With persisting drought conditions and water shortages here in California, drought-tolerant  
landscaping is definitely the way to go. While planting drought-resistant plants and water conservation are important factors, truly drought-tolerant landscapes begin with the soil.

For plants, grass and trees to be able to thrive in drought conditions, they require nutrient-rich soil that is properly aerated and able to disperse water efficiently. To prepare soil for a water-wise landscape, you should first till and loosen soil roughly a foot deep. Highly compacted soil makes it difficult for roots to spread. It also makes it harder for water to penetrate the soil adequately before it evaporates. Important to keep in mind is the fact that healthy soil is as important to landscapes comprised of rocks and cacti as it is to those with lawns, shrubs and flower beds.

Once the ground has been loosened the addition of compost, rich in organic matter, will provide the nutrients your plants need to grow healthy and lush even in tough conditions. Soil straight from your backyard just won’t do the job, neither will just any compost off the shelf of your local garden supply center. All compost is not created equal. As a result of the variety of organic materials that go into the compost feedstock, there can be a wide variability in the characteristics and quality of compost products. As a result, you may ask, “How do I buy compost that meets my landscaping needs?”

One answer is to purchase only compost that complies with the terms and conditions of the USCC’s Seal of Testing Assurance [STA] Program. This will provide you with the information that you need in order to make an informed buying decision

Ideally, you should prepare your soil and complete your planting before the hottest and driest parts of the year. If your plants have time to develop a healthy and deep root base before the hottest and driest parts of the summer, they will be stronger and better able to withstand drought conditions.

After you have prepared your soil and completed your planting, you should then cover the ground with a thick carpet of mulch. Not only will mulch reduce the number of weeds that will use up water and nutrients, it will prevent the water from evaporating at ground level before it has time to penetrate the soil.

Because almost all drought tolerant plants have a vast, far-reaching taproot that seeks water out deep below the soil’s surface, well-amended soil is a must when planting a drought-tolerant garden. Compost must be added to native soil if drought-tolerant plants are to survive. Even if you are planting a sloped area, adding 1 or 2 inches of compost to native soil is imperative; water must soak deep into the soil where, in times of drought, plants’ taproot systems can have access. Adding Harvest Blend Compost to your native soil will greatly improve the texture, aeration and draining capacity, so this should be your first priority when planting a water-wise garden. Naturally!

For more info email info@harvestblendcompost.com or call (805)925-2771

 

OM = Organic Material, Important in Building Healthy Soil

If your soil and turf are healthy, you might think that the soil would be able to generate its own organic content. This is not necessarily true. The ideal soil is open and crumbly, giving the grass roots plenty of room to grow full and deep. When digging, you should find a large population of earthworms and microbes; these are the good guys in your soil. When earthworms, microbes and roots die off they decompose, raising the soils’ organic levels for new soil life. This cycle is referred to as the Soil Food Web, where roots, earthworms, and microbes are constantly recycling themselves.

Truly healthy soil has between 3% and 5% organic material. That level can be maintained ONLY IF organic matter is added to the soil at the surface year in and year out. Plants, earthworms, and microbes need that extra matter to support healthy soil. In the woods and grasslands, that added organic matter came from dead leaves or dead grasses decomposing each year. We need to repeat that process in our lawns to be able to maintain a healthy organic content in our soil.

Very few residential landscapes have soil this rich with organic material. The truth is soil beneath our lawns typically contains less than 1% organic material. This is because over a ten or twenty year period not only was no new organic material introduced, but the main source of these materials such as leaves and grass clippings have been collected and transported to local landfills. What a waste!

Healthy soil needs a steady supply of new organic material. It’s constantly decomposing, adding nutrients for the grass and plants, and must be replaced. Decomposed grass clippings and other organic material don’t have much food value left, but they’re valuable in aerating the soil, storing water and in feeding key microorganisms needed for other tasks. Leaving grass clippings on the lawn might provide some organic material; it is not enough to consistently provide 3 or 5 %. This is why we need to add more.

How can we add extra organic matter, you ask?

The solution is simple, and one you may not be familiar with; top dressing. Top dressing a lawn is the process of adding a fine layer of quality compost to your lawn. The quick & easy method involves simply working the compost into the grass with the back of a landscaper’s rake or a stiff broom (making sure not to smother grass with compost) and watering thoroughly. In only a few days, you’ll notice your lawn taking on a strong, healthy appearance; greening up where before there were patches of brown grass.

The “Professional” method is the same process with one exception; aerate soil before adding compost. If you have an irrigation system you’ll need to make it’s marked with flags before aeration (don’t want to poke holes in pipes now, do we?) Then proceed as you would for the quick & easy method, making sure to water well when finished. When you top dress your lawn with compost, this organic material eventually begins to decompose. More important, the earthworms seek it out and pull it down into the soil and eat it. 

If you don’t regularly top dress your lawn, it’s high time to begin. It might sound like extra work, but it’ll pay off big time in contributing to the development of healthy soil; stimulating soil life to provide nutrients and opening soil structure so it holds air and moisture.

Harvest Blend Compost contains premium organic matter necessary to raise soils’ organic levels to the recommended 5%. Locally produced from quality, recycled organic materials, Harvest Blend Compost has passed the strictest testing methods to carry the Seal of Testing Assurance (STA) label. This means our products are free of weed seeds and pathogens, guaranteeing product safety for your lawn and garden.

Healthy soil translates into healthier grass. Growing in soil with 5% organic content, lawns can expand their considerable root systems, reaching deep into the soil to tap more dependable supplies of water and nutrients. They are more self-reliant, less dependent on us for nutrition and moisture. They do not suffer stress. The result is fewer problems with weeds, diseases and pests. Naturally!

For all the details on Top dressing and Harvest Blend Compost and all its benefits, go to www.GotCompost.com or call us at 805-925-2771.

 

 

 

"KETCHUP" on the Million Tomato Campaign (pun intended)

Back in April we shared news of the US Composting Council’s Million Tomato Compost

Campaign - a nationwide drive to boost the soil health and growing power of community gardens across the country – just by adding compost to the soil.
Since then, the team from E&G and Harvest Blend has joined with 10 Central Coast community gardens; donating more than 2,500 cubic feet of premium Harvest Blend Compost, nearly 1,000 tomato seedlings (plus additional veggie transplants and gardening supplies) to this project!

Of course the main focus of the campaign was to grow fresh, healthy produce for donation to local food banks, and we’re happy to report some gardens will be harvesting soon, but there’s another side to this story. We’ve watched organic matter (in the form of compost) transform dry, compacted areas of land into nutrient rich soil; creating productive gardens that will soon be bursting with ripe, red tomatoes!

 

Participating in this campaign has been exciting and rewarding, and we thank all the hard working men, women and children who’ve joined together to help us reach our goal. Folks at the US Composting Council will keep us posted on ‘The Count,’ and let us know when we’ve reached ONE MILLION TOMATOES, so stay tuned.

Email for more info on this program, or to find out if your community garden qualifies for a compost donation.

 

 

 

 

PROTECT PLANTS FROM SUMMER HEAT - MULCH!

Summer has arrived on the Central Coast! We may enjoy the warm (hot!) weather but our overheated lawns and gardens need protection from soaring temps. In other words, it’s time to mulch.

Mulch is any material that protects the soil surface and allows air and water through. Organic mulches –mulches derived from plant materials, such as compost –not only protect the soil but add nutrients over time while enriching overall soil composition.

Mulch reduces evaporation from the soil surface, moderates soil temperature, and insulates roots from summer heat (and winter cold). Mulch suppresses weeds, reduces soil compaction, prevents erosion, and adds organic matter to the soil.

Summer mulch -

Apply 2-3” of compost around plants at midsummer to protect plants from hot weather and reduce the soil temperature by 10°F or more. Soil temperatures greater than 85°F can slow plant growth. The temperature of soil under mulch changes much more slowly.

Mulch protects bare soil from being compacted over time by the drying of soil particles in the sun and the beating of rain or irrigation. A thin layer of mulch will protect soil microorganisms and other beneficial soil borne organisms from cooking in the summer heat.

Almost all plants benefit from the protection of mulch. Vegetables that most benefit from summer mulching are eggplants, tomatoes, cauliflower, celery, potatoes, currants, and gooseberries. These crops especially appreciate cool, loose, well-drained soil.

Applying mulch -

Two cubic feet of compost mulch can cover an area of 8 square feet to 3 inches deep; one cubic yard of compost mulch covers an area of 108 square feet to 3 inches deep.

Mulch should be applied loosely and not compacted. Mulch should be kept back a few inches from the stems or crowns of plants and trunks of trees. If placed too closely, mulch can retain moisture and cause plant stems and trunks to rot.

Water can be delivered to plant roots through mulch into the soil. Drips systems set under mulch will more directly apply water to the root zone. Mulch can control insects and diseases, reducing or eliminating the spread of fungal spores often spread by the splashing of irrigation water or rain.

For more info visit GotCompost.com 

Here Comes the Sun!

It’s June 21, summer solstice! The first day of summer and the longest day of the year! 

In sunny California, we should enjoy balmy temps until September or October; but gardeners must consider one more factor - the number of actual daylight hours. 

Less sunlight during the day means soil has to rely on stored heat to maintain proper conditions to support plant growth. Simply speaking, when the weather is warm plants will grow a little faster and when it’s cold they will grow a little slower, but the one consistent factor affecting plant growth is the change in day length. 

For example – if you’re planting lettuce and you want to harvest lettuce every week:

• During summer and fall, your planting would be five or six days apart.
• In late winter and spring your plantings would be ten or twelve days apart. 

Of course this is just an example; if you plan on evenly spacing your garden harvest, there are a number of internet references that can take the guess work out of planting.

Before getting started be sure to check the condition of your soil. Working a few inches of Harvest Blend Compost into garden plots will building healthy soil for fresh, healthy vegetables.

Now get out there and enjoy this lovely summer weather; enjoy prepping, planting and picking!

For more info, feel free to contact one of our field reps, or visit GotCompost.com

FRESH TOMATOES - Enjoy the fruits of your labor!

Homegrown tomatoes VS store bought varieties – there’s just no contest. We make due with lower quality supermarket specials when necessary but come spring and summer, we have no excuse to settle for less.

Temps are perfect for tomato planting now, so let’s get growing!

• Check local garden centers for a selection of tomato transplants. If you have a certain tomato in mind and are unable to find seedlings, check out the seed dept. for heirloom and specialty types. Growing from seed will lengthen the process, so unless you just have to just have that "Darby Pink-Yellow Striped" Heirloom variety, you’re better off planting a reliable ‘Early Girl’ transplant.
• Now that you have your tomato seedlings in hand, it’s time to plant! Choose a site that gets full sun and has soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Tomatoes need plenty of warmth to taste their best - give growing plants protection from cool breezes with a windbreak of trees, a garden wall or a vine-covered trellis.
• Plants need a healthy foundation, so make sure to amend the soil with plenty of compost. Tomatoes need soil rich in organic matter, and the best, most affordable method of increasing soil organic matter is through a good application of compost.
• Harden off seedlings, whether store-bought or homegrown, and move them to the garden when nighttime temperatures remain above 50 degrees F.
• Dig a hole the size of a basketball for each plant. Add a shovelful of compost to each hole.
• Set the plants 12 to 18 inches apart depending on variety (see the seed packet or plant label). Plant them deeply - up to the fourth branch from the top - to encourage new root development.
• Place a paper collar around each plant to deter cutworms, and cover the plants with cloches or floating row covers to protect them from insects and cool temperatures.
• Remove the covers when the weather has warmed, mulch the soil and install any supports the plants will need as they grow.
• Make sure plants get between one and two inches of water every two weeks after transplanting; after the first flowers appear; when the fruits reach the size of golf balls and when you spot the first ripe tomato.
• And finally - pick tomatoes when their color is glossy and even, and their texture midway between soft and firm.

We don’t have to tell you what to do next, do we? Enjoy your tasty tomatoes fresh from the garden, as the 'T' in a BLT or as a fresh topping for homemade pizza.

Need compost for your garden? Contact one of our helpful Field Reps at 805.925.2771

 

 

 

Follow @chefnathanlyon and @gotcompost

Check out USCC's #MillionTomatoes compost campaign

Can You Dig It - Twice?

Double Digging, just like it sounds, is the process of digging a plot of ground to twice the normal depth and transferring soil from the lower level to the top in order to revitalize it before planting.

Double digging helps the soil hold more water, improves aeration and places organic material at a depth that enables plant roots to fully extend. The technique of double digging and adding compost to build humus and soil fertility, is described as "growing the soil."

Double Dig Instructions

1. Dig a trench one shovel-length deep (nine or ten inches) and the length of your planting area.
2. Pile the soil in a wheelbarrow. You can also place soil in front of first trench, although the wheelbarrow method makes it easier to transport to last trench at end of double dig.
3. Loosen the soil at the bottom of the trench another nine to ten inches. (Spading fork works great for this)
4. Add organic material, such as compost, and using a spading fork, thoroughly mix compost into the subsoil.
5. Dig a second trench parallel to the first and repeat steps 2 and 3.
6. Use the topsoil from the second trench to fill the first one, adding more organic matter and mixing it in.
7. Repeat the procedure until you've dug, enriched and amended the entire planting area.
8. Fill the last trench with the topsoil you put in the wheelbarrow when you dug the first trench, enriching it with organic matter as you did before.

We know, the process of double digging involves more time and muscle, but your efforts will be rewarded when you harvest the tastiest, healthiest vegetables ever!

STA Certified Harvest Blend Compost is the perfect soil amendment; supplying vital nutrients and oxygen; improving soil structure and water-holding capacity, creating a healthy foundation for gardens and landscapes. Naturally! Click for a dealer near you.

 

Don't Let Soil Go Bankrupt

Our garden soil is like our bank account: In the long run, we can't afford to withdraw more than we deposit. When we harvest fruits, vegetables or flowers, we're making withdrawals.  Whenever we add organic matter to the soil or mulch to the surface, we're making deposits. Organic amendments fatten up the soil bank. They literally add life to poor soil, allowing excess water to drain away while leaving enough moisture for roots, and retain nutrients until feeder roots need them.

The weather we’ve experienced on the Central Coast this winter has been fierce and our poor soils’ bank balances have to be feeling the pinch. But there is a simple solution to this situation; just add compost!

Compost is the most nutrient rich, readily available soil amendment you can choose to improve soil conditions and replenish lost nutrients. It’s jam packed with beneficial microbes tired, sandy and compacted soils are lacking. The organic matter opens up the soil structure, increasing oxygen to plants’ root systems, helping them grow strong.

Compost is composed of the decaying remains of plants and animals. As it decomposes, organic matter releases nutrients that are absorbed by soil-dwelling microorganisms and bacteria. The combination of these creatures' waste products and their remains, called humus, binds with soil particles. In clay, it forces the tightly packed particles apart; drainage is improved, and the soil is easier for plant roots to penetrate. In sand, it lodges in the large pore spaces and acts as a sponge, slowing drainage so the soil stays moist longer.

Though the particular organic amendment you use is often decided simply by what's available at the best price, many experts favor compost over all other choices. Harvest Blend Compost is simply your best choice! It’s registered with the United States Composting Council Seal of Testing Assurance program (STA) – a compost testing, labeling and information disclosure program designed to give you the information you need to get the maximum benefit from the use of compost.  Only the highest quality compost is awarded the STA label. It’s your guarantee of excellence!

Adding amendments: when and how

Newly established beds should be amended with compost before any plants go into the ground.

In vegetable and flower beds: amend the soil before each new crop is planted. Compost is preferred by most gardeners, since it dramatically improves the soil's structure; adding oxygen and nutrients, improving soil structure for a healthy root system. Un-amended soil may dry into hard clods that small roots cannot penetrate, and plants may grow slowly, be stunted, or die as a result.

To add amendments to unplanted beds, spread the material evenly over the soil, then work it in by hand or with a rototiller to a depth of about 6-8 inches. If your soil is mostly clay or sand, spread 4 to 5 inches of amendment over it; once this is worked in, the top 8 inches of soil will be about half original soil, half amendment. If the soil is loamy or has been regularly amended each season, add just a 2- to 3-inch layer of amendment; you'll have a top 8-inch layer of about three-quarters original soil, one-quarter amendment.

For tired lawns, a fine layer of compost may be added 2x a year to bring grass back to life. The simple process of top dressing makes all the difference! If soil is compacted, you might want to aerate before adding compost - but either way you will enjoy a lush, green lawn in no time at all.

Permanent or semi-permanent plantings of trees, shrubs, or perennials benefit from added organic matter too, but you need to make sure not to damage plant roots. Most of the time all you need to do is to spread the compost over the soil surface as mulch; earthworms, microorganisms, rain, and irrigation water will all carry it downward over time, gradually improving the soil's top layer. If the plant isn't a shallow-rooted type (that is, if it doesn't have many roots concentrated near soil level), you can speed up the improvement process by working the amendment into the top inch or so of soil with a pitchfork. 

Bottom line – pay attention to soils’ ‘bank’ balance. The health and quality of your landscape depends on it!

For more info, visit www.GotCompost.com. If you have questions or concerns about compost and its uses, we’re happy to help. Naturally!

Mulch in Winter- Protect Soil & Plants

Nearing the end of December, it’s supposed to be cold…right? And when you’re cold, what do you do to make life more comfy? Put on a cozy coat or sweater, maybe snuggle under a blanket? Whatever your choice of ‘cover up,’ you probably do NOT tough it out and dress as though it were summer. Our trees, flowers and soil deserve the same consideration - and how do we accomplish this? One word – mulch.

Mulch (noun) is “a protective covering of organic material laid over the soil and around plants to prevent erosion, retain moisture, and enrich the soil.” Mulch acts as an overcoat for soil and plants; providing protection, insulation and natural, chemical-free weed control. Materials such as leaves, bark, straw, newspaper, compost and even plastic, may be used as mulch. Only one of these offers great potential for restoring ecological processes to degraded soils, while diverting a valuable natural resource from landfills – and that is compost.

Applying compost and mulch to the landscape increases soil organic matter (S.O.M); providing vital nutrients that create structure and pore spaces - allowing soil to easily soak up excess rain water. This helps reduce runoff from lawns and gardens during storms, which can help reduce flooding, sewer overflows, and erosion. Improving your soil can also save you money by reducing summer irrigation needs because plants grow deeper roots and the soil holds more water. Healthier plants have fewer pest and disease problems and need less fertilizer, so you’ll need fewer chemicals, which is good for your family’s health and our environment. The beneficial soil organisms (fed by compost and mulch) also break down pollutants and help move carbon dioxide (a greenhouse gas) from the atmosphere into long-term storage in the soil.

Three steps to building healthy soil:

1) Amend the soil with compost

• Dig or till 2-4 inches of compost into the upper 6-8 inches of soil when preparing beds or new lawn areas for planting. Amend the whole bed. Amending just the planting holes can limit root growth.
• Top dressing - improve existing lawns by aerating, then raking ¼ to ½ inch of compost in, spring or fall.

2) Mulch existing plantings regularly

• Spread mulch in the spring or fall, to control weeds and conserve water, reduce runoff, and prevent erosion (keep 1 inch away from tree trunks). Renew mulch layers annually.
• On garden beds and around shallow-rooted annuals, mulch with 1-2 inches of compost, shredded leaves, or grass clippings.
• Around trees and woody perennials, use 2-4 inches of wood chips (from a tree service) or leaves. Medium-sized bark mulch (fine bark can repel water) is a second choice.
• Save your fall leaves, or gather them for free – they’re a great mulch for most plants.
• Use conifer tree needles as a mulch around conifer trees, or around acid-loving plants.
• Mulch-mow (leave the clippings) on your lawn, to build denser turf, deeper roots, and a drought resistant, healthy lawn.

3) Avoid using chemicals, and choose organic or slow-release fertilizers

• Pesticides (weed and bug killers) like “weed-and-feed” may hurt beneficial soil life, wildlife, and our families’ health too – use the resources below to find better alternatives.
• Over-fertilization with quick-release chemical fertilizers is also bad for soil life, and harms our lakes and streams by causing algae blooms. (The algae later dies, and uses up oxygen in the water as it decomposes, suffocating fish).
• Fertilize moderately (compost can replace most fertilizer needs), and look for the words “natural organic” or “slow-release” on the fertilizer bag. They cost a little more but they feed plants a long time, and they don’t wash away in the first rainstorm.

When purchasing compost for your lawn or garden, be sure it's USCC STA Certified compost - preferably BULK (less expensive and no plastic bags to clog the landfill)

Questions? Expert answers are a call or click away!

 

A Pumpkin is a Terrible Thing to Waste

The facts are, each year in the US, one billion pounds of pumpkins are produced. That adds up to at least 100 million pounds of the big orange squash in every state!

All this pumpkin production must mean we're pretty fond of the large gourd. So if we asked what you loved most about pumpkins, what answer do you suppose we’d get? Yeah we know, pumpkin pie is delish and Jack-O-Lanterns are fun. But what’s even better is the fact the entire pumpkin is compostable; making proper disposal a no-brainer.

Pumpkins are a unique holiday decoration in that they are totally natural, but most of the ‘nature’ is tossed in the trash once they’re carved. What a shame, letting a natural resource like this go to waste. Literally. So, how can you make sure that the entire pumpkin is being used and not put into a landfill? Simple – COMPOST IT!

Check www.GotCompost.com  for more information on compost; how compost is made; its uses and benefits. In a nutshell, compost is the decomposition of organic materials to produce nutrient-rich soil enhancer.

Pumpkin seeds themselves are a strong source of nutrients, including zinc, iron and phosphorus. These are all great additions to a compost pile, unless you’re like our kids and you wash and toast those precious seeds for a tasty snack. Now that you know why it’s important to compost, let’s figure out the best way to recycle that pumpkin.

Whether or not you have a compost pile in your yard, there are ways to make it happen. Compost piles rely on a mix of nitrogen-rich greens (which will include pumpkin components) and browns (leaves, paper and other carbon-rich materials). Many communities now offer greenwaste collection along with weekly trash pickup; so if you don’t have your own backyard pile, just toss those gooey, stringy ‘guts’ into your greenwaste bin.

After your Jack-O-Lantern has done its job and begins shriveling up on your porch, you’re free to dispose of it in the most natural way possible. Some folks like to smash the shell before composting or placing in the greenwaste container. Instead of rotting in the landfill, pumpkins will travel to the nearest Regional Compost Facility where they’ll be combined with other locally collected organic materials, and be transformed into premium compost products.

And the cool thing is; compost made with recycled pumpkins may be put back into the earth where it will build healthy soil to grow new pumpkins! This is what we call ‘Completing the Cycle!’ – the most environmentally responsible method of recycling there is.

Did you know that compost has a number of uses and benefits? In addition to being the best soil amendment there is, compost can also be used to improve flower and vegetable gardens and top dress lawns.

So there you go! Don’t waste that pumpkin, compost it! Naturally!

August │Enjoy Your Harvest

Yep, it’s a fun month for Central Coast gardeners. Now is when we get to enjoy the fruits (and vegetables) of our labor; juicy tomatoes, tasty corn, crisp lettuce and more. August is traditionally the month to harvest delicious summer crops, but it's also the time to start planning for a fall garden.  

To get the best yield out of your garden make sure to pick veggies regularly to stimulate growth and ensure they’ll produce through fall. Water is important now; so get out there and check for moisture in soil around zucchini, squash and tomato plants and you will enjoy an almost continuous supply of vegetables during August.

Plant Your Fall and Winter Vegetables: It's too late to plant summer crops, but it is the perfect time to plant seeds or transplants that produce cool-season vegetables such as green onions, carrots, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, mustard, radishes and beets. Seeds and young plants will thrive in the warm summer soil. If you’ll be planting seeds in flats, put the flats in partial shade to avoid the direct summer heat. Transplant the seedlings into the garden when they are about 4 inches tall.

Of course before planting, you'll want to make sure soil contains the recommended 5% Soil Organic Matter (SOM). This is an easy fix; simply amend soil with Harvest Blend Compost for the healthiest foundation possible. Plants will thrive!

Water Smart: Even drought tolerant and native plants need plenty of water in the heat of summer. Give them a good soak at least twice a week. Potted plants are especially susceptible to high temperatures. If they still wilt after daily watering, think about moving the pots to shade or partial shade locations until the weather cools. Water in the early morning hours to reduce evaporation and water longer so the water has a chance to travel deeper into the soil. Cover your soil with a layer of mulch (compost) to retain moisture. Naturally!

Protect Fruit From Predators: Put bird netting on fruit trees two or three weeks before the fruit begins to ripen. This will keep birds from feasting on the tree fruit. Use rocks or bricks to hold down the netting so birds, rabbits or squirrels can't accidentally get trapped inside.

Plant for Color and Fragrance: August is a good time to plant bushes and trees that add color and fragrance to your garden just about year round. For a dash of color, consider begonia, impatiens, oleander, Chinese hibiscus and firebush. For fragrance, plant gardenias, jasmine and lilac.

Visit www.GotCompost.com for more info.

An Ounce of Prevention...



Microbe rich Harvest Blend Compost

Healthy soil takes a long time to develop naturally.
However, it can all be destroyed in a single planting season or with a just one landscaping endeavor. Basic soil conservation is like preventative medicine: The better you are at keeping soil healthy, the fewer drastic measures you have to take down the road to keep your garden or lawn thriving. You know the old saying, ‘An ounce of prevention...’

Soil quality should be a concern to everyone on the planet. Whether you're a suburbanite looking for a perfect lawn or a fifth-generation farmer looking for the perfect harvest; the nature and quality of your soil are among the most important factors in your success. All soils contain a mixture of organic and inorganic matter, but their proportions and characteristics vary from place to place.

Topsoil

Topsoil is the upper layer of soil in a given area. It typically contains sand, silt and clay in varying proportions, which can account for as little as 40 percent or as much as 80 percent of the soil's bulk. Sandy soils are loose and drain well, but they retain water poorly. Silt soils compact and become dense, while clay soils can become hard and drain poorly. All of these characteristics can be modified if there is enough organic matter in the topsoil. Some of this organic matter is fully decomposed, and some is actively decomposing.

Organic Matter Soil

Above the topsoil, at ground level, is a thin layer composed almost entirely of organic matter. It's made up of varying materials, such as thatch in grasslands and leaf mold in forests. This layer is constantly decomposing as bacteria, fungi, worms and insects digest it and transform it into rich humus. Through the normal passage of time and the activity of soil-based organisms, this organic material slowly becomes incorporated into the topsoil beneath it. We can speed up this process by adding organic matter to this layer as mulch or by adding finished humus to the soil in the form of mature compost.

Organic Matter and Drainage

Soils with increased organic matter are proven to maintain consistently superior drainage. The addition of compost acts as a sponge, creating air pockets where water can seep in and be retained. This is beneficial to all types of soil. Compost improves a sandy soil's ability to retain moisture, reducing the need for irrigation. In hard-packed silt or clay, adding compost will soften and lighten the soil. This allows water to seep in and be absorbed, or "infiltrated," rather than pooling on the surface to create runoff and wastewater. This reduces both erosion and water use, two important environmental benefits.

If you have areas of soil that puddle and won’t drain, don’t give up. Here’s a relatively simple method to drain water from soggy soil – after which you can proceed with soil amendment.

Items you will need:

1.     Shovel

2.     Perforated drainpipe

3.     Compost

4.     Fertilizer

5.     Tiller

Step 1:

Drain the soil if it collects standing water, which will make gardening more productive and help prevent erosion. Locate the lowest spot in the area that needs draining, and then find a low spot below that area, wherever the water seems to drain to. Dig a trench and install a perforated drainpipe running downslope from one spot to the other. Surround the pipe with gravel to prevent dirt from clogging the perforations.

Step 2:

Stay off wet soil. Do not walk or drive on wet soil or do anything that packs it down. Compacted soil prevents air and water from flowing through, which eliminates room for roots to grow.

Step 3:

Mix compost into sandy soil to improve nitrogen levels and bring a greater yield of crops and plants.

Step 4:

Fertilize your soil wisely. Use organic fertilizers designed to meet the needs of the soil in your particular region. Follow the instructions on the container carefully and do not apply more fertilizer than is suggested.

Step 5:

Till the soil at the proper time. Tilling the soil when it is wet causes it to clump, which destroys the soil's composition. Soil that crumbles in your hand is ready to till.

Soil Biology

The physical properties of organic matter soil, and their importance as a portion of the topsoil, are only part of the larger picture. Soil Organic Matter (SOM) is also crucial to soil's ecosystem. Billions of bacteria, fungi, nematodes, insects, worms and other organisms that make up the Soil Foodweb, feed on fresh organic material, leaving nutrient rich compost in its place. The more varied and plentiful these organisms are, the healthier the soil. A thriving, biologically diverse soil provides more nutrients to plants, doing away with harmful pathogens; helping to build healthy soil. Naturally!

For more info visit http://www.gotcompost.com/

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