In 1997, the U.S. Composting
Council (USCC) published The
Soil and Water Connection as an easy-to-use document that would
explain the connection of soil to water, as well as the fundamentals of
composting. In essence, it was The
Farmer’s Almanac of the composting world. Since that time, public
opinion has steered in a positive direction and an increase in organics for
environmental applications (as well as the results) can be seen. The composting
industry has also evolved in its techniques and the various ways in which
compost can be applied. This makes now the perfect time for a second edition,
and the USCC has done just that. The Soil and
Water Connection: A Watershed Manager’s Guide to Organics is an
updated booklet that takes the original’s message and applies it to today’s
world.
The first half of The Soil and Water Connection
focuses on the environmental problems of soil degradation and water pollution,
the harmful effects they are having on the environment and what compost
application can do to change all that. From there its goes on to explain just
what compost is, its processes and what makes it so valuable to soil and water.
Finally, the guide describes what can be done to prevent these problems, as
well as composting’s role going forward.
Promoting compost uses and benefits - because healthy soil means a healthy landscape. Naturally!
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Showing posts with label amend with compost. Show all posts
Showing posts with label amend with compost. Show all posts
Friday, June 9, 2017
The Soil and Water Connection
The soil-water connection is a real one, for a healthy soil, rich in organic matter, not only has a dramatic impact on the reduction of runoff volumes, but also captures and degrades pollutants before they have an opportunity to foul ground and surface water.
Engel & Gray and Harvest Blend
Compost are dedicated to collecting, composting, and recycling organic
materials into nutrient rich compost products, ready to build healthy soil and
plants. With nearly 25 years of experience in composting, Harvest Blend Compost
is a proud supporter of the USCC and the US Composting Council’s Research &
Education Foundation. For more info call us at 805-925-2771 or visit www.gotcompost.com
Thursday, December 31, 2015
Protect Landscapes Against El Niño
With the possibility of record-breaking precipitation this
winter, experts say now is the time to take
action by preparing yards against
El Niño storm damage.
Heavy rainfall has the potential to cause major devastation, run-off and even mudslides. Highly saturated soils make it hard for plants to survive. In wet soil, it is almost impossible for roots to take up all the oxygen that the plant needs, which causes the roots to decay. Deep roots are the first to rot. If the condition continues shallower roots will also be damaged.
Heavy rainfall has the potential to cause major devastation, run-off and even mudslides. Highly saturated soils make it hard for plants to survive. In wet soil, it is almost impossible for roots to take up all the oxygen that the plant needs, which causes the roots to decay. Deep roots are the first to rot. If the condition continues shallower roots will also be damaged.
Even plants that don't appear to be flooded may have
problems during extended wet weather. And you may not see the damage until next
summer. One of the best defenses for your winter landscape is to make
sure you have healthy, well-drained soil.
Horticulturists suggest the following tips on how to prevent
run-off and yard damage:
- Since good drainage is
extremely important to plant health, pre-storm chores should include clearing
a place for the rain water to go - clearing weeds from the run-off ditches
in yards as well as cleaning out rain gutters and spouts.
- Amend compacted soil with
compost. Adding a few inches of compost to hard, dry soil will open soil,
increasing water holding capacity, improving drainage and decreasing
runoff.
- Opt for six-packs of
groundcover plants as they have larger, more mature roots (beneficial on sloped
areas)
- Save top-heavy plants,
such as ice plants, for flat areas since they tend to become water-logged
and uproot on hillsides during heavy rains
- New landscaping may need
additional care during storms
- Rocks can prevent run-off
by stopping pathways of rainwater
- Prune trees before storms
happen as strong rain storms can cause dead branches to fall and damage
property
- Plants that have fibrous
roots, such as California wild lilac, are ideal to plant for controlling
erosion
- Hemp nets can help keep
seeds and new grass in place on hillsides during heavy rain
- Newly created slopes will need to be covered with plastic from top to bottom as they tend to have unstable soil
Friday, July 24, 2015
DON'T TEAR YOUR LAWN OUT! There are easier ways to survive this drought.
Higher temps and lack of water can cause folks to resort to drastic measures, such as tearing out lawns and gardens. But there’s no need to go to that extreme. Check out these tips for saving water and your lawn:
Improve the soil
- Use compost as a mulch in shrub/flower beds to add organic matter to the soil, project the soil, insulate it from high temperatures and retain moisture.
- Aerate and top-dress the lawn with compost to increase the ability of soil to absorb and retain moisture.
- Replace water-intensive plants with drought-tolerant ones and add compost to the soil when planting to improve moisture retention.
- Use compost as a mulch in shrub/flower beds to add organic matter to the soil, project the soil, insulate it from high temperatures and retain moisture.
Make your irrigation system more efficient.
- Check your sprinkler timer cycles. Does water run off after 20 minutes? If so, shorten the duration of the cycle and increase the number of cycles.
- If water runs off, shorten the duration of the cycle.
- Install a smart controller with a moisture sensor. The system will water only when the lawn really needs it.
- Adjust the sprinkler heads so they spray only on the lawn, not pavement or flower beds.
- Replace spray heads with rotors which are more efficient.
- Install separate lines for shrubs/flower beds with fewer cycles and longer duration.
- Install drip lines or soaker hoses for shrubs/flower beds.
Friday, August 22, 2014
OM = Organic Material, Important in Building Healthy Soil
If your soil and turf are healthy, you might think that the
soil would be able to generate its own organic content. This is not necessarily
true. The ideal soil is open and crumbly, giving the grass roots
plenty of room to grow full and deep. When digging, you should find a large
population of earthworms and microbes; these are the good guys in your soil.
When earthworms, microbes and roots die off they decompose, raising the soils’
organic levels for new soil life. This cycle is referred to as the Soil Food
Web, where roots, earthworms, and microbes are constantly recycling themselves.
Truly healthy soil has between 3% and 5% organic material.
That level can be maintained ONLY IF organic matter is added to the soil at the
surface year in and year out. Plants, earthworms, and microbes need that extra matter
to support healthy soil. In the woods and grasslands, that added organic matter
came from dead leaves or dead grasses decomposing each year. We need to repeat that
process in our lawns to be able to maintain a healthy organic content in our
soil.
Very few residential landscapes have soil this rich with
organic material. The truth is soil beneath our lawns typically contains less
than 1% organic material. This is because over a ten or twenty year period not
only was no new organic material introduced, but the main source of these
materials such as leaves and grass clippings have been collected and transported
to local landfills. What a waste!
Healthy soil needs a steady supply of new organic material.
It’s constantly decomposing, adding nutrients for the grass and plants, and
must be replaced. Decomposed grass clippings and other organic material don’t
have much food value left, but they’re valuable in aerating the soil, storing
water and in feeding key microorganisms needed for other tasks. Leaving grass
clippings on the lawn might provide some organic material; it is not enough to
consistently provide 3 or 5 %. This is why we need to add more.
How can we add extra organic matter, you ask?
The solution is simple, and one you may not be familiar
with; top dressing. Top dressing a lawn is the process of adding a fine layer
of quality compost to your lawn. The quick & easy method involves simply
working the compost into the grass with the back of a landscaper’s rake or a
stiff broom (making sure not to smother grass with compost) and watering
thoroughly. In only a few days, you’ll notice your lawn taking on a strong,
healthy appearance; greening up where before there were patches of brown grass.
The “Professional” method is the same process with one
exception; aerate soil before adding compost. If you have an irrigation system
you’ll need to make it’s marked with flags before aeration (don’t want to poke
holes in pipes now, do we?) Then proceed as you would for the quick & easy
method, making sure to water well when finished. When you top dress your lawn
with compost, this organic material eventually begins to decompose. More
important, the earthworms seek it out and pull it down into the soil and eat
it.
If you don’t regularly top dress your lawn, it’s high time
to begin. It might sound like extra work, but it’ll pay off big time in
contributing to the development of healthy soil; stimulating soil life to
provide nutrients and opening soil structure so it holds air and moisture.
Harvest Blend Compost contains premium organic matter
necessary to raise soils’ organic levels to the recommended 5%. Locally
produced from quality, recycled organic materials, Harvest Blend Compost has
passed the strictest testing methods to carry the Seal of Testing Assurance
(STA) label. This means our products are free of weed seeds and pathogens,
guaranteeing product safety for your lawn and garden.
Healthy soil translates into healthier grass. Growing in soil
with 5% organic content, lawns can expand their considerable root systems, reaching
deep into the soil to tap more dependable supplies of water and nutrients. They
are more self-reliant, less dependent on us for nutrition and moisture. They do
not suffer stress. The result is fewer problems with weeds, diseases and pests.
Naturally!
For all the details on Top dressing and Harvest Blend Compost
and all its benefits, go to www.GotCompost.com
or call us at 805-925-2771
.
Friday, May 30, 2014
Keep Water Clean! Replace Lawn Pesticides with Compost
Did you know
that…
Santa Maria’s
storm drains do not go to the City's wastewater treatment plant? When surface
water flows through streets from storms, any pollutants run into storm drains.
Storm drains flow directly, without treatment, to the Santa Maria River or into
the nearest local retention basin where the water percolates back into the
groundwater. Both our river and our underlying groundwater eventually flow to
the ocean. Any pollutants found in the water, stay in the water untreated, and
causes ocean pollution affecting our beaches, our coast, and our ocean life.
A major
contributor to the pollution problem is lawn pesticides. Think about it - if
there was a way to make your lawn lush and green without using harmful pesticides
and harsh fertilizers, wouldn’t you want to know about it? The key to a good
lawn is healthy soil. It’s the foundation of a vibrant lawn. If your soil is
dry and compacted or clay based your lawn won’t be able to get the oxygen and
nutrients it needs. Root systems need room to grow and that won’t happen in
tired, dry soil. Healthy soil contains high organic content and is teeming with
biological life, supporting the development of healthy grass that is naturally
resistant to weeds and pests. Once established, an organic lawn uses fewer
materials, such as water and fertilizers, and requires less labor for mowing
and maintenance. More importantly, your lawn will be safe for children, pets
and your local drinking water supply. Follow these tips to start transitioning
your lawn and you'll be well on your way to a lush, green, pesticide-free landscape.
Top-dressing
– what is it?
The process
of applying a layer of compost over the surface of a lawn is called Top Dressing.
Top Dressing may be applied after lawn aeration, or alone as a Quick & Easy
application. Golf courses and sports fields have always realized the value of
top dressing the turf, but this practice has only recently become popular on
home lawns. Top Dressing with Harvest Blend Compost is the most environmentally
beneficial way to a greener, healthier lawn. Naturally!
When should I
top-dress the lawn?
Spring and
fall are the best times to top-dress, but in our temperate climate there's really no wrong time to improve our turf. Lawns based on poor soil will benefit
from top dressing the soil twice each year. Lawns based on good quality soil
might not need top dressing every year but if you want a lush, green lawn then
once a year will keep it that way.
Professional greens keepers regularly top dress to ensure a top quality
turf. If you want a beautiful lawn that can meet professional standards then
you should top dress your lawn annually.
What product
should I use for top-dressing?
Compost is
the ideal material for lawn top-dressing. There are 2 methods we suggest; ‘Quick
& Easy', simply spreading a thin layer of compost over lawns, and
'Professional'; aerating lawns before spreading compost. Instructions for both
are available on our website. Harvest Blend Compost not only beautifies your
landscape, it’s environmentally responsible and benefits your landscape by:
- Improving
soil structure, porosity and density to ensure a healthier root
environment.
- Infiltrating
heavy soils thereby reducing erosion.
- Increasing
water holding capacity of soil so that water is used more efficiently.
- Stabilizing
pH and improving the soil's ability to hold nutrients.
- Supplying
valuable microbes, micro and macronutrients and organic matter to the soil
environment.
- Helping to
suppress soil-borne plant pathogens.
- Binding and degrading specific pollutants – so they stay out of our water system
For more information, please visit www.GotCompost.com or email info@HarvestBlendCompost.com
Tuesday, March 4, 2014
Mulch in March to Protect Soil & Prevent Weeds
Don’t let recent
rains fool you, California continues to experience drought conditions,
negatively affecting local landscapes. A great way to conserve water, add
nutrients and keep pesky weeds at bay is by applying mulch. This goes for every
garden site, from vegetable garden to flower bed. Mulched gardens are
healthier, contain fewer weeds and are more drought-resistant then unmulched
gardens. Bottom line - you'll spend less time watering, weeding, and fighting
pest problems.
There are two
basic kinds of mulch: organic and inorganic. Organic mulches include formerly
living material such as chopped leaves, straw, grass clippings, compost, wood
chips, shredded bark, sawdust, pine needles, and even paper. Inorganic mulches
include gravel, stones, black plastic, and geotextiles (landscape fabrics).
Both types
discourage weeds, but organic mulches also improve the soil as they decompose.
Inorganic mulches don't break down and enrich the soil, but under certain
circumstances they're the mulch of choice. For example, black plastic warms the
soil and radiates heat during the night, keeping heat-loving vegetables such as
eggplant and tomatoes cozy and vigorous.
Using Organic
Mulches
There are two cardinal rules for using
organic mulches to combat weeds. First, be sure to lay the mulch down on soil
that is already weeded, and second, lay down a thick enough layer to discourage
new weeds from coming up through it. It can take a 4- to 6-inch layer of mulch
to completely discourage weeds, although a 2- to 3-inch layer is usually enough
in shady spots where weeds aren't as troublesome as they are in full sun.
Mulching with
compost will definitely
enrich your soil and make your plants happy, but remember, compost is a dense
product so a little goes a long way – a 1 inch layer will do the trick. Keep
mulch about 1 inch away from crowns and stems, 6-12 inches from shrub and tree
trunks.
Organic Mulching Mechanics - Spreading organic mulch saves labor and
nurtures plants by:
- Preventing most weed seeds from
germinating; the few weeds that do pop through the mulch will be easy to
pull.
- Protecting soil from temperature
changes, reducing the need to water
- Decomposing slowly, releasing
nutrients into the soil
- Encouraging earthworm activity,
improving soil tilth and nutrient content
- Keeping dirt from splashing on
flowers and vegetables
When possible buy compost and other landscape products in BULK! STA Certified Harvest Blend CompostÒ builds healthy soil. Naturally!
Friday, January 3, 2014
Winter Planting on the Central Coast
With the holidays over, and some
pretty nice temps, we can’t wait to get back to ‘work’ in the garden! While
gardeners on the East Coast and in the Midwest may be busy trying to dig out of
the snow and just dreaming of spring planting while looking at seed catalogs or
online, gardeners here can still be actively enjoying their gardens. Besides the usual garden cleanup - leaves to
rake, pruning and dormant spraying of trees and bushes, gardeners on the
Central Coast can still enjoy planting cool season crops. Many people think nothing much can be planted
in what seems to be the dead of winter, but there are a surprising number of
things that can be put in the ground this time of year besides the usual bare
root roses.
In the vegetable garden, we can
plant asparagus, globe artichokes and rhubarb from roots and broccoli, cabbage
and cauliflower from transplants, if you can find them in a nursery or garden
center. Unfortunately the selection of
vegetable plants available at local outlets is limited, so you might consider
starting your own transplants from seed next year or get a head start on spring
planting this year. Carrots, kohlrabi,
lettuce, parsley, peas, radishes and turnips can all be planted from seed. Yes, I did say lettuce, which will tolerate
some frost and can be grown all winter long in our area. Think of fresh lettuce from your own garden,
tender and sweet, not that stuff from the grocery store. Leaf lettuce is the best bet, and most
rewarding. Did you know that head
lettuce (aka Iceberg) was developed in the 1890's? Iceberg became successful because its firm,
round shape and long shelf life made it good for shipping long distances – for
the first time people could have lettuce for salads the year around, not just
summer. The downside is that head
lettuce just doesn't have the flavor of leaf lettuce, which tastes best when
fresh. Our favorite is a Bibb variety
called Tom Thumb which produces sweet and tender miniature heads perfect an
individual salad. Just add a little
dressing and enjoy!
A word about compost -
When planting, always add compost to your soil. It is the best investment you can make in
your garden and an essential step in garden preparation. Compost adds organic
matter to your soil, increases water holding capacity, adds nutrients and
improves soil health. If you are
preparing a garden bed, apply a layer of 2 to 4 inches of compost and work it
into the soil before planting. For
planting bare root shrubs or trees (rose bushes, fruit trees, berries, etc.)
add compost to the soil as you refill the hole in which you are plating
them. Add compost and watch your garden
grow!
For all the details, visit Harvest Blend Compost or email info@harvestblendcompost.com
Friday, April 5, 2013
Can You Dig It - Twice?
Double Digging, just like it sounds, is the process of digging a plot of ground to twice the normal depth and transferring soil from the lower level to the top in order to revitalize it before planting.
Double digging helps the soil hold more water, improves aeration and places organic material at a depth that enables plant roots to fully extend. The technique of double digging and adding compost to build humus and soil fertility, is described as "growing the soil."
Double Dig Instructions
- Dig a trench one shovel-length deep (nine or ten inches) and the length of your planting area.
- Pile the soil in a wheelbarrow. You can also place soil in front of first trench, although the wheelbarrow method makes it easier to transport to last trench at end of double dig.
- Loosen the soil at the bottom of the trench another nine to ten inches. (Spading fork works great for this)
- Add organic material, such as compost, and using a spading fork, thoroughly mix compost into the subsoil.
- Dig a second trench parallel to the first and repeat steps 2 and 3.
- Use the topsoil from the second trench to fill the first one, adding more organic matter and mixing it in.
- Repeat the procedure until you've dug, enriched and amended the entire planting area.
- Fill the last trench with the topsoil you put in the wheelbarrow when you dug the first trench, enriching it with organic matter as you did before.
We know, the process of double digging involves more time and muscle, but your efforts will be rewarded when you harvest the tastiest, healthiest vegetables ever!
STA Certified Harvest Blend Compost is the perfect soil amendment; supplying vital nutrients and oxygen; improving soil structure and water-holding capacity, creating a healthy foundation for gardens and landscapes. Naturally! Click for a dealer near you.
Friday, January 25, 2013
Don't Let Soil Go Bankrupt
Our garden soil is like our bank account: In the long run, we can't afford to withdraw more than we deposit. When we harvest fruits, vegetables or flowers, we're making withdrawals. Whenever we add organic matter to the soil or mulch to the surface, we're making deposits. Organic amendments fatten up the soil bank. They literally add life to poor soil, allowing excess water to drain away while leaving enough moisture for roots, and retain nutrients until feeder roots need them.
The weather we’ve experienced on the Central Coast this winter has been fierce and our poor soils’ bank balances have to be feeling the pinch. But there is a simple solution to this situation; just add compost!
Compost is the most nutrient rich, readily available soil amendment you can choose to improve soil conditions and replenish lost nutrients. It’s jam packed with beneficial microbes tired, sandy and compacted soils are lacking. The organic matter opens up the soil structure, increasing oxygen to plants’ root systems, helping them grow strong.
Compost is composed of the decaying remains of plants and animals. As it decomposes, organic matter releases nutrients that are absorbed by soil-dwelling microorganisms and bacteria. The combination of these creatures' waste products and their remains, called humus, binds with soil particles. In clay, it forces the tightly packed particles apart; drainage is improved, and the soil is easier for plant roots to penetrate. In sand, it lodges in the large pore spaces and acts as a sponge, slowing drainage so the soil stays moist longer.
Though the particular organic amendment you use is often decided simply by what's available at the best price, many experts favor compost over all other choices. Harvest Blend Compost is simply your best choice! It’s registered with the United States Composting Council Seal of Testing Assurance program (STA) – a compost testing, labeling and information disclosure program designed to give you the information you need to get the maximum benefit from the use of compost. Only the highest quality compost is awarded the STA label. It’s your guarantee of excellence!
Adding amendments: when and how
Newly established beds should be amended with compost before any plants go into the ground.
In vegetable and flower beds: amend the soil before each new crop is planted. Compost is preferred by most gardeners, since it dramatically improves the soil's structure; adding oxygen and nutrients, improving soil structure for a healthy root system. Un-amended soil may dry into hard clods that small roots cannot penetrate, and plants may grow slowly, be stunted, or die as a result.
To add amendments to unplanted beds, spread the material evenly over the soil, then work it in by hand or with a rototiller to a depth of about 6-8 inches. If your soil is mostly clay or sand, spread 4 to 5 inches of amendment over it; once this is worked in, the top 8 inches of soil will be about half original soil, half amendment. If the soil is loamy or has been regularly amended each season, add just a 2- to 3-inch layer of amendment; you'll have a top 8-inch layer of about three-quarters original soil, one-quarter amendment.
For tired lawns, a fine layer of compost may be added 2x a year to bring grass back to life. The simple process of top dressing makes all the difference! If soil is compacted, you might want to aerate before adding compost - but either way you will enjoy a lush, green lawn in no time at all.
Permanent or semi-permanent plantings of trees, shrubs, or perennials benefit from added organic matter too, but you need to make sure not to damage plant roots. Most of the time all you need to do is to spread the compost over the soil surface as mulch; earthworms, microorganisms, rain, and irrigation water will all carry it downward over time, gradually improving the soil's top layer. If the plant isn't a shallow-rooted type (that is, if it doesn't have many roots concentrated near soil level), you can speed up the improvement process by working the amendment into the top inch or so of soil with a pitchfork.
Bottom line – pay attention to soils’ ‘bank’ balance. The health and quality of your landscape depends on it!
For more info, visit www.GotCompost.com. If you have questions or concerns about compost and its uses, we’re happy to help. Naturally!
Sunday, December 2, 2012
Want to Recycle Organic Materials? Location Matters!
Doing some traveling over the past few months, we've paid attention to trash and recycling collection practices in a variety of locations in California. This post focuses on the Bay Area; Menlo Park, to be exact. Whoa, life must be pretty exciting if a highlight of our visit was spotting bins specifically for compostable materials!
But this is a topic of interest because recycling
practices vary so drastically from one area of our state to another; and
undoubtedly, across the country. If Menlo Park, San Francisco and San Jose have
designated bins for compostable materials, in addition to recyclables and
normal everyday trash, why can’t the rest of the country do the same? On the
Central Coast, some cities have passed ordinances requiring collection of Green
Waste – with a slight rise in collection fees (approximately $3). This is a
move in the right direction, but when we think about all the food scraps and
coffee grounds heading for the landfill, we’re sorry to see these resources
being wasted.
Recycling isn’t just for glass and metal. Potato peelings,
egg shells, tea bags and coffee grounds (don’t forget the filter!) can be
recycled into compost. And that’s just the tip of the iceberg (lettuce); almost
all food waste, paper goods – such as paper plates and napkins – and clean wood
products, like coffee stirrers, can be transformed into nutrient rich compost.
In our little community on the Central Coast of
California, we faithfully truck our recycle bins out to the curb one week; and
our green waste bins go out the next. With no compost bin for collection of
food scraps, coffee/coffee filters, cardboard, etc., we’re forced to waste
these resources or do what we do – compost this stuff at home. All well and
good for the environment, but when we need a decent amount of compost for lawn top dressing,
laying sod or amending soil for our annual vegetable garden; buying fresh,
local, bulk compost is the way to go.
Bins for compostable materials need to be available
across the country; with collected organic materials sent to the nearest
Regional Compost Facility. These facilities provide the freshest soil products
to the public - ready to be put back into the earth building healthy soil to
grow crops and improve lawns and gardens. The re-use of recycled materials has
a few labels, but we call this ‘Completing the Cycle.’
So, to free up landfill space and improve the environment we
should:
1. collect
organic materials
2. recycle
these material for transformation into compost
3. purchase
bulk compost
4. use compost
to build healthy soil
Working together, we can do this. Naturally! Click for more info
Need compost for your next project? Call (805) 925-2771
and ask for Jim or Chuck.
Harvest Blend Compost is available at authorized dealers
in San Luis and Santa Barbara Counties.
Friday, October 12, 2012
Add Compost for a Strong Healthy Lawn
Are you looking for a way to spruce up your lawn after summer’s high temperatures? Look no further, the answer is here in the form of nutrient rich compost - the all natural solution to tired landscapes!
If you’ve never used compost on your lawn, you’ll be amazed at the difference it will make in the health and beauty of your turf.
The process of applying a layer of compost over the surface of lawns is called ‘top dressing.’ Top dressing is the best way to improve and maintain soil health; increasing soil organic matter which promotes healthy root and soil structure, strengthening lawns and soil.
Before you begin, make sure compost is ‘STA Certified,’ meaning it’s passed strict testing by the US Composting Council and carries the Seal of Testing Assurance label. STA Compost helps increase soil’s moisture holding capacity which may reduce those pesky water bills!
Top Dressing is quick and easy -
For best results, mow the turf short, approximately 1½ inch.
Apply 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch of Harvest Blend Compost over existing turf (0.80 to 1.60 cubic yards per 1000 sq. ft.)
Work compost into turf with a rake. You can use the back of a wide 'Landscaper's' rake to spread the mix and 'brush' it into the grasses of the lawn. A good stiff broom will also do the trick. Make sure that the compost does not smother the grass. The grass should be showing through the Compost top dressing.
The compost will replenish organic material in the soil with the result that the soil does a better job of holding moisture and nutrients for use by the grass. Compost is naturally full of air channels, so it does not block the air and moisture from traveling into the soil.
Water thoroughly after application.
If soil is compacted, you may want to aerate your lawn first. Core aerators are available at most equipment rental locations and will allow compost to easily be worked into soil. After aerating the turf the lawn should look like it is covered with cigar butts. Don't worry, they will disintegrate and disappear within a few weeks.
Top dressing in the fall is the key first step to a greener and healthier lawn next spring. Naturally!
For more info visit GotCompost.com
Check out Google Maps for a dealer near you.
Wednesday, August 15, 2012
August │Enjoy Your Harvest
Yep, it’s a fun month for Central Coast gardeners. Now is when we get to enjoy the fruits (and vegetables) of our labor; juicy tomatoes, tasty corn, crisp lettuce and more. August is traditionally the month to harvest delicious summer crops, but it's also the time to start planning for a fall garden.
To get the best yield out of your garden make sure to pick veggies regularly to stimulate growth and ensure they’ll produce through fall. Water is important now; so get out there and check for moisture in soil around zucchini, squash and tomato plants and you will enjoy an almost continuous supply of vegetables during August.
To get the best yield out of your garden make sure to pick veggies regularly to stimulate growth and ensure they’ll produce through fall. Water is important now; so get out there and check for moisture in soil around zucchini, squash and tomato plants and you will enjoy an almost continuous supply of vegetables during August.
Plant Your Fall and Winter Vegetables: It's too late to plant summer crops, but it is the perfect time to plant seeds or transplants that produce cool-season vegetables such as green onions, carrots, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, mustard, radishes and beets. Seeds and young plants will thrive in the warm summer soil. If you’ll be planting seeds in flats, put the flats in partial shade to avoid the direct summer heat. Transplant the seedlings into the garden when they are about 4 inches tall.
Of course before planting, you'll want to make sure soil contains the recommended 5% Soil Organic Matter (SOM). This is an easy fix; simply amend soil with Harvest Blend Compost for the healthiest foundation possible. Plants will thrive!
Water Smart: Even drought tolerant and native plants need plenty of water in the heat of summer. Give them a good soak at least twice a week. Potted plants are especially susceptible to high temperatures. If they still wilt after daily watering, think about moving the pots to shade or partial shade locations until the weather cools. Water in the early morning hours to reduce evaporation and water longer so the water has a chance to travel deeper into the soil. Cover your soil with a layer of mulch (compost) to retain moisture. Naturally!
Water Smart: Even drought tolerant and native plants need plenty of water in the heat of summer. Give them a good soak at least twice a week. Potted plants are especially susceptible to high temperatures. If they still wilt after daily watering, think about moving the pots to shade or partial shade locations until the weather cools. Water in the early morning hours to reduce evaporation and water longer so the water has a chance to travel deeper into the soil. Cover your soil with a layer of mulch (compost) to retain moisture. Naturally!
Protect Fruit From Predators: Put bird netting on fruit trees two or three weeks before the fruit begins to ripen. This will keep birds from feasting on the tree fruit. Use rocks or bricks to hold down the netting so birds, rabbits or squirrels can't accidentally get trapped inside.
Plant for Color and Fragrance: August is a good time to plant bushes and trees that add color and fragrance to your garden just about year round. For a dash of color, consider begonia, impatiens, oleander, Chinese hibiscus and firebush. For fragrance, plant gardenias, jasmine and lilac.
Visit www.GotCompost.com for more info.
Wednesday, July 25, 2012
An Ounce of Prevention...
Healthy soil takes a long time to develop naturally.
However, it can all be destroyed in a single planting season or with a just one landscaping endeavor. Basic soil conservation is like preventative medicine: The better you are at keeping soil healthy, the fewer drastic measures you have to take down the road to keep your garden or lawn thriving. You know the old saying, ‘An ounce of prevention...’
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| Microbe rich Harvest Blend Compost |
However, it can all be destroyed in a single planting season or with a just one landscaping endeavor. Basic soil conservation is like preventative medicine: The better you are at keeping soil healthy, the fewer drastic measures you have to take down the road to keep your garden or lawn thriving. You know the old saying, ‘An ounce of prevention...’
Soil quality should be a concern to everyone on the planet. Whether you're a suburbanite looking for a perfect lawn or a fifth-generation farmer looking for the perfect harvest; the nature and quality of your soil are among the most important factors in your success. All soils contain a mixture of organic and inorganic matter, but their proportions and characteristics vary from place to place.
Topsoil
Topsoil is the upper layer of soil in a given area. It typically contains sand, silt and clay in varying proportions, which can account for as little as 40 percent or as much as 80 percent of the soil's bulk. Sandy soils are loose and drain well, but they retain water poorly. Silt soils compact and become dense, while clay soils can become hard and drain poorly. All of these characteristics can be modified if there is enough organic matter in the topsoil. Some of this organic matter is fully decomposed, and some is actively decomposing.
Organic Matter Soil
Above the topsoil, at ground level, is a thin layer composed almost entirely of organic matter. It's made up of varying materials, such as thatch in grasslands and leaf mold in forests. This layer is constantly decomposing as bacteria, fungi, worms and insects digest it and transform it into rich humus. Through the normal passage of time and the activity of soil-based organisms, this organic material slowly becomes incorporated into the topsoil beneath it. We can speed up this process by adding organic matter to this layer as mulch or by adding finished humus to the soil in the form of mature compost.
Organic Matter and Drainage
Soils with increased organic matter are proven to maintain consistently superior drainage. The addition of compost acts as a sponge, creating air pockets where water can seep in and be retained. This is beneficial to all types of soil. Compost improves a sandy soil's ability to retain moisture, reducing the need for irrigation. In hard-packed silt or clay, adding compost will soften and lighten the soil. This allows water to seep in and be absorbed, or "infiltrated," rather than pooling on the surface to create runoff and wastewater. This reduces both erosion and water use, two important environmental benefits.
If you have areas of soil that puddle and won’t drain, don’t give up. Here’s a relatively simple method to drain water from soggy soil – after which you can proceed with soil amendment.
Items you will need:
1. Shovel
2. Perforated drainpipe
3. Compost
4. Fertilizer
5. Tiller
Step 1:
Drain the soil if it collects standing water, which will make gardening more productive and help prevent erosion. Locate the lowest spot in the area that needs draining, and then find a low spot below that area, wherever the water seems to drain to. Dig a trench and install a perforated drainpipe running downslope from one spot to the other. Surround the pipe with gravel to prevent dirt from clogging the perforations.
Step 2:
Stay off wet soil. Do not walk or drive on wet soil or do anything that packs it down. Compacted soil prevents air and water from flowing through, which eliminates room for roots to grow.
Step 3:
Mix compost into sandy soil to improve nitrogen levels and bring a greater yield of crops and plants.
Step 4:
Fertilize your soil wisely. Use organic fertilizers designed to meet the needs of the soil in your particular region. Follow the instructions on the container carefully and do not apply more fertilizer than is suggested.
Step 5:
Till the soil at the proper time. Tilling the soil when it is wet causes it to clump, which destroys the soil's composition. Soil that crumbles in your hand is ready to till.
Soil Biology
The physical properties of organic matter soil, and their importance as a portion of the topsoil, are only part of the larger picture. Soil Organic Matter (SOM) is also crucial to soil's ecosystem. Billions of bacteria, fungi, nematodes, insects, worms and other organisms that make up the Soil Foodweb, feed on fresh organic material, leaving nutrient rich compost in its place. The more varied and plentiful these organisms are, the healthier the soil. A thriving, biologically diverse soil provides more nutrients to plants, doing away with harmful pathogens; helping to build healthy soil. Naturally!
For more info visit http://www.gotcompost.com/
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