Mulch in March to Protect Soil & Prevent Weeds

Don’t let recent rains fool you, California continues to experience drought conditions, negatively affecting local landscapes. A great way to conserve water, add nutrients and keep pesky weeds at bay is by applying mulch. This goes for every garden site, from vegetable garden to flower bed. Mulched gardens are healthier, contain fewer weeds and are more drought-resistant then unmulched gardens. Bottom line - you'll spend less time watering, weeding, and fighting pest problems.

There are two basic kinds of mulch: organic and inorganic. Organic mulches include formerly living material such as chopped leaves, straw, grass clippings, compost, wood chips, shredded bark, sawdust, pine needles, and even paper. Inorganic mulches include gravel, stones, black plastic, and geotextiles (landscape fabrics).

Both types discourage weeds, but organic mulches also improve the soil as they decompose. Inorganic mulches don't break down and enrich the soil, but under certain circumstances they're the mulch of choice. For example, black plastic warms the soil and radiates heat during the night, keeping heat-loving vegetables such as eggplant and tomatoes cozy and vigorous.

Using Organic Mulches

There are two cardinal rules for using organic mulches to combat weeds. First, be sure to lay the mulch down on soil that is already weeded, and second, lay down a thick enough layer to discourage new weeds from coming up through it. It can take a 4- to 6-inch layer of mulch to completely discourage weeds, although a 2- to 3-inch layer is usually enough in shady spots where weeds aren't as troublesome as they are in full sun.

 

Mulching with compost will definitely enrich your soil and make your plants happy, but remember, compost is a dense product so a little goes a long way – a 1 inch layer will do the trick. Keep mulch about 1 inch away from crowns and stems, 6-12 inches from shrub and tree trunks.

 

Organic Mulching Mechanics - Spreading organic mulch saves labor and nurtures plants by:

• Preventing most weed seeds from germinating; the few weeds that do pop through the mulch will be easy to pull.
• Protecting soil from temperature changes, reducing the need to water
• Decomposing slowly, releasing nutrients into the soil
• Encouraging earthworm activity, improving soil tilth and nutrient content
• Keeping dirt from splashing on flowers and vegetables

When possible buy compost and other landscape products in BULK! STA Certified Harvest Blend CompostÒ builds healthy soil. Naturally!

Click or call for more compost info

 

FALL PLANTING - IT'S NOT TOO LATE!

Winter may be right around the corner, but that’s no reason to put your gardening tools into storage.

November's cool fall evenings and normally warm sunny days give Central Coast gardeners one last opportunity to plant vegetables and flowers for the year.

Plant Hearty Flowers: Plenty of cool-season flowers are durable enough to withstand heavy rains, near freezing temperatures and even hot Santa Ana winds--almost anything that Mother Nature can throw our way this month. Check local nurseries for pansies, primrose, sweet alyssum, snapdragons, California wildflowers and calendula so they will be in full bloom in fall and winter. Flowers may last until spring.

Divide Existing Perennials: Divide perennials including Shasta daisies, daffodils, callas and yarrow. To divide, begin digging around the roots at the drip line so there is less chance of root damage as more roots will remain intact. Replant in well-composted soil and water generously until roots take hold.

A Vegetable Garden in November? Yep, gardeners who want fresh vegetables year-round have a variety of cool-season vegetables to plant in November. Beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, strawberries, celery, cabbage and broccoli can all be planted in November and will produce vegetables one to two months after planting.

Mulch Gardens:

Mulch is just as important in fall as it is in spring and summer. Spread a two-inch layer around gardens, bushes and trees. Weeds use any amount of rain to begin to grow. The layer of mulch keeps weeds in check. Mulch will also stop rain-producing mud from splashing onto garden plants. A layer of Harvest Blend Compost is the perfect material to use! Make sure to keep compost a few inches away from plant stems.

Top Dress Lawns:

When done the right way, the technique of “top-dressing,” or adding a thin layer of compost over lawns, can improve the soil without harming the existing turf. Top-dressing gradually improves soil over time. As organic matter breaks down, it filters through the existing soil to improve texture and overall health. 

To learn more about top dressing your lawn with compost (and other compost uses) email our friendly field reps, check out our website or call 805.925.2771

PROTECT PLANTS FROM SUMMER HEAT - MULCH!

Summer has arrived on the Central Coast! We may enjoy the warm (hot!) weather but our overheated lawns and gardens need protection from soaring temps. In other words, it’s time to mulch.

Mulch is any material that protects the soil surface and allows air and water through. Organic mulches –mulches derived from plant materials, such as compost –not only protect the soil but add nutrients over time while enriching overall soil composition.

Mulch reduces evaporation from the soil surface, moderates soil temperature, and insulates roots from summer heat (and winter cold). Mulch suppresses weeds, reduces soil compaction, prevents erosion, and adds organic matter to the soil.

Summer mulch -

Apply 2-3” of compost around plants at midsummer to protect plants from hot weather and reduce the soil temperature by 10°F or more. Soil temperatures greater than 85°F can slow plant growth. The temperature of soil under mulch changes much more slowly.

Mulch protects bare soil from being compacted over time by the drying of soil particles in the sun and the beating of rain or irrigation. A thin layer of mulch will protect soil microorganisms and other beneficial soil borne organisms from cooking in the summer heat.

Almost all plants benefit from the protection of mulch. Vegetables that most benefit from summer mulching are eggplants, tomatoes, cauliflower, celery, potatoes, currants, and gooseberries. These crops especially appreciate cool, loose, well-drained soil.

Applying mulch -

Two cubic feet of compost mulch can cover an area of 8 square feet to 3 inches deep; one cubic yard of compost mulch covers an area of 108 square feet to 3 inches deep.

Mulch should be applied loosely and not compacted. Mulch should be kept back a few inches from the stems or crowns of plants and trunks of trees. If placed too closely, mulch can retain moisture and cause plant stems and trunks to rot.

Water can be delivered to plant roots through mulch into the soil. Drips systems set under mulch will more directly apply water to the root zone. Mulch can control insects and diseases, reducing or eliminating the spread of fungal spores often spread by the splashing of irrigation water or rain.

For more info visit GotCompost.com 

Don't Let Soil Go Bankrupt

Our garden soil is like our bank account: In the long run, we can't afford to withdraw more than we deposit. When we harvest fruits, vegetables or flowers, we're making withdrawals.  Whenever we add organic matter to the soil or mulch to the surface, we're making deposits. Organic amendments fatten up the soil bank. They literally add life to poor soil, allowing excess water to drain away while leaving enough moisture for roots, and retain nutrients until feeder roots need them.

The weather we’ve experienced on the Central Coast this winter has been fierce and our poor soils’ bank balances have to be feeling the pinch. But there is a simple solution to this situation; just add compost!

Compost is the most nutrient rich, readily available soil amendment you can choose to improve soil conditions and replenish lost nutrients. It’s jam packed with beneficial microbes tired, sandy and compacted soils are lacking. The organic matter opens up the soil structure, increasing oxygen to plants’ root systems, helping them grow strong.

Compost is composed of the decaying remains of plants and animals. As it decomposes, organic matter releases nutrients that are absorbed by soil-dwelling microorganisms and bacteria. The combination of these creatures' waste products and their remains, called humus, binds with soil particles. In clay, it forces the tightly packed particles apart; drainage is improved, and the soil is easier for plant roots to penetrate. In sand, it lodges in the large pore spaces and acts as a sponge, slowing drainage so the soil stays moist longer.

Though the particular organic amendment you use is often decided simply by what's available at the best price, many experts favor compost over all other choices. Harvest Blend Compost is simply your best choice! It’s registered with the United States Composting Council Seal of Testing Assurance program (STA) – a compost testing, labeling and information disclosure program designed to give you the information you need to get the maximum benefit from the use of compost.  Only the highest quality compost is awarded the STA label. It’s your guarantee of excellence!

Adding amendments: when and how

Newly established beds should be amended with compost before any plants go into the ground.

In vegetable and flower beds: amend the soil before each new crop is planted. Compost is preferred by most gardeners, since it dramatically improves the soil's structure; adding oxygen and nutrients, improving soil structure for a healthy root system. Un-amended soil may dry into hard clods that small roots cannot penetrate, and plants may grow slowly, be stunted, or die as a result.

To add amendments to unplanted beds, spread the material evenly over the soil, then work it in by hand or with a rototiller to a depth of about 6-8 inches. If your soil is mostly clay or sand, spread 4 to 5 inches of amendment over it; once this is worked in, the top 8 inches of soil will be about half original soil, half amendment. If the soil is loamy or has been regularly amended each season, add just a 2- to 3-inch layer of amendment; you'll have a top 8-inch layer of about three-quarters original soil, one-quarter amendment.

For tired lawns, a fine layer of compost may be added 2x a year to bring grass back to life. The simple process of top dressing makes all the difference! If soil is compacted, you might want to aerate before adding compost - but either way you will enjoy a lush, green lawn in no time at all.

Permanent or semi-permanent plantings of trees, shrubs, or perennials benefit from added organic matter too, but you need to make sure not to damage plant roots. Most of the time all you need to do is to spread the compost over the soil surface as mulch; earthworms, microorganisms, rain, and irrigation water will all carry it downward over time, gradually improving the soil's top layer. If the plant isn't a shallow-rooted type (that is, if it doesn't have many roots concentrated near soil level), you can speed up the improvement process by working the amendment into the top inch or so of soil with a pitchfork. 

Bottom line – pay attention to soils’ ‘bank’ balance. The health and quality of your landscape depends on it!

For more info, visit www.GotCompost.com. If you have questions or concerns about compost and its uses, we’re happy to help. Naturally!

GOT MULCH? Mulching protects plants from heat

Here on the Central Coast we seem to be experiencing a minor heat wave; this means a little extra TLC is needed for landscapes and gardens. Without some human help, a heat wave can wipe out a vegetable garden in just a couple of days.

The high temperatures of a heat wave damage a plant in several ways. First, there's the evaporation of soil moisture, which robs the roots of water. A heat wave will also dehydrate a plant by extracting moisture through the leaves and stem. Finally, the hot rays of the sun can sunburn the leaves, turning them a pale yellow-to-tan color which eventually die and fall off. Protecting your vegetable garden from a heat wave means slowing down the loss of water and minimizing sun damage. Here's how it's done:

Mulch, mulch, mulch │ Mulch is more than a pretty way to decorate a garden. It actually serves an important function in shading tender roots from the sun and slowing the evaporation of ground moisture. Mulch doesn't have to be expensive or fancy to work – bark, newspaper, straw, leaves, grass clippings and compost are affordable and do a great job. Just make sure to keep bark and compost a few inches away from the base of trees and shrubs to discourage insects.

Compost as mulch │ Applying compost to garden beds is a win/win. Not only are plants and soil protected from the elements, compost adds vital nutrients to the soil; increasing porosity and water holding capacity, encouraging a healthy root system. Premium STA Certified Harvest Blend Compost is the perfect choice; Naturally! Click for a map of our trusty dealers

Change how you water │ A vegetable garden can basically be watered in two ways, either at ground level or overhead. During a heat wave, overhead watering with an oscillating or other type of sprinkler head should be avoided. The combination of high temperatures and a hot sun can evaporate up to 90% of that water even before it hits the ground. A better watering solution is to use a soaker hose system, watering through channels, or hand watering the roots.

Other changes that need to be made include -

• Increasing the watering times to twice a day until the temps dip below 90 degrees.
• Avoid watering between 10 am and 7 pm, unless you have a soaker system or irrigation channels. Overhead watering when the sun is beating down on your plants can scald the leaves and kill them.
• Deep water when possible. Deep watering encourages deeper root growth.

Provide shade if possible. To protect more vulnerable vegetable plants, we set up a canopy to shade tender veggies during a heat wave. If you don't own a canopy, sheets draped over 5 foot bamboo stakes can also provide some plant relief.

Plants and soil sometimes need a little extra help from their human caretakers; and periods of extreme heat and/or cold are 2 of those occasions. For more info on compost uses and benefits, visit www.GotCompost.com or Like us on Facebook.

An Ounce of Prevention...



Microbe rich Harvest Blend Compost

Healthy soil takes a long time to develop naturally.
However, it can all be destroyed in a single planting season or with a just one landscaping endeavor. Basic soil conservation is like preventative medicine: The better you are at keeping soil healthy, the fewer drastic measures you have to take down the road to keep your garden or lawn thriving. You know the old saying, ‘An ounce of prevention...’

Soil quality should be a concern to everyone on the planet. Whether you're a suburbanite looking for a perfect lawn or a fifth-generation farmer looking for the perfect harvest; the nature and quality of your soil are among the most important factors in your success. All soils contain a mixture of organic and inorganic matter, but their proportions and characteristics vary from place to place.

Topsoil

Topsoil is the upper layer of soil in a given area. It typically contains sand, silt and clay in varying proportions, which can account for as little as 40 percent or as much as 80 percent of the soil's bulk. Sandy soils are loose and drain well, but they retain water poorly. Silt soils compact and become dense, while clay soils can become hard and drain poorly. All of these characteristics can be modified if there is enough organic matter in the topsoil. Some of this organic matter is fully decomposed, and some is actively decomposing.

Organic Matter Soil

Above the topsoil, at ground level, is a thin layer composed almost entirely of organic matter. It's made up of varying materials, such as thatch in grasslands and leaf mold in forests. This layer is constantly decomposing as bacteria, fungi, worms and insects digest it and transform it into rich humus. Through the normal passage of time and the activity of soil-based organisms, this organic material slowly becomes incorporated into the topsoil beneath it. We can speed up this process by adding organic matter to this layer as mulch or by adding finished humus to the soil in the form of mature compost.

Organic Matter and Drainage

Soils with increased organic matter are proven to maintain consistently superior drainage. The addition of compost acts as a sponge, creating air pockets where water can seep in and be retained. This is beneficial to all types of soil. Compost improves a sandy soil's ability to retain moisture, reducing the need for irrigation. In hard-packed silt or clay, adding compost will soften and lighten the soil. This allows water to seep in and be absorbed, or "infiltrated," rather than pooling on the surface to create runoff and wastewater. This reduces both erosion and water use, two important environmental benefits.

If you have areas of soil that puddle and won’t drain, don’t give up. Here’s a relatively simple method to drain water from soggy soil – after which you can proceed with soil amendment.

Items you will need:

1.     Shovel

2.     Perforated drainpipe

3.     Compost

4.     Fertilizer

5.     Tiller

Step 1:

Drain the soil if it collects standing water, which will make gardening more productive and help prevent erosion. Locate the lowest spot in the area that needs draining, and then find a low spot below that area, wherever the water seems to drain to. Dig a trench and install a perforated drainpipe running downslope from one spot to the other. Surround the pipe with gravel to prevent dirt from clogging the perforations.

Step 2:

Stay off wet soil. Do not walk or drive on wet soil or do anything that packs it down. Compacted soil prevents air and water from flowing through, which eliminates room for roots to grow.

Step 3:

Mix compost into sandy soil to improve nitrogen levels and bring a greater yield of crops and plants.

Step 4:

Fertilize your soil wisely. Use organic fertilizers designed to meet the needs of the soil in your particular region. Follow the instructions on the container carefully and do not apply more fertilizer than is suggested.

Step 5:

Till the soil at the proper time. Tilling the soil when it is wet causes it to clump, which destroys the soil's composition. Soil that crumbles in your hand is ready to till.

Soil Biology

The physical properties of organic matter soil, and their importance as a portion of the topsoil, are only part of the larger picture. Soil Organic Matter (SOM) is also crucial to soil's ecosystem. Billions of bacteria, fungi, nematodes, insects, worms and other organisms that make up the Soil Foodweb, feed on fresh organic material, leaving nutrient rich compost in its place. The more varied and plentiful these organisms are, the healthier the soil. A thriving, biologically diverse soil provides more nutrients to plants, doing away with harmful pathogens; helping to build healthy soil. Naturally!

For more info visit http://www.gotcompost.com/

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Mulch with Compost - protect soil during winter

Brrrr…temps are lower than ever! Mulching garden beds insulates soil & plants from the cold.

When we hear the word ‘mulch’ we think of a product; you know, like the multitude of bagged varieties you find on the shelves of our local garden centers. But did you know that mulch is an application? Yup, to ‘mulch’ your garden simply means you place a layer of organic or inorganic material on the surface of the soil. This is a good time of year to mulch our gardens since mulch acts as insulation for tender plants, roots and soil during cooler months. Mulch also protects soils against erosion; conserves water by slowing evaporation; controls certain plant diseases and decorates landscapes.

Mulching is one of the most widely used practices in residential landscapes. Many types of mulch used in planting beds are wood-based; made by grinding waste wood, e.g. pallets, tree branches, etc. The wood mulch is dyed to make it more attractive and to look more like bark, but has a very high carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio. Other types of mulch include synthetic sheeting, ground greenwaste and our favorite - compost.

Research has shown that compost when used as mulch can greatly improve soil fertility and plant growth. In studies comparing compost and ground wood used as mulch on ornamental plantings - mulching with compost increased soil organic matter, microbial activity, nutrient availability and tree growth. Increased microbial activity in soils has been linked to the suppression of many root diseases.

In comparison to wood mulch, the compost had a comparatively low C:N ratio and may act as high quality organic fertilizer as it decomposes. In contrast, high C:N mulch made from recycled wood caused nutrient deficiencies and reduced plant growth. The high carbon content of the mulch stimulated the growth of soil microbes which gobbled up the limited supply of nutrients, leaving nothing for existing plants, resulting in Nitrogen immobilization. Although the nitrogen-depleting effect of mulch lessens over time as it decomposes, this nitrogen immobilization by microbes may harm plants that haven’t established extensive root systems.

To be available to plants, nitrogen must be in an inorganic form, such as nitrate (NO3- ) or ammonium (NH4+). Plants aren’t capable of converting organic nitrogen to these inorganic forms. Fortunately, microorganisms commonly found in soil and compost convert organic nitrogen into inorganic nitrogen, a process called mineralization. Plants may then take up the nutrients released by this process.

Soils in urban and suburban landscapes often lack nutrient rich organic matter because topsoil is usually removed, disturbing soil during construction. Research results demonstrated that mulching with compost increases organic matter, microbial biomass, nutrient availability, and plant growth. The use of compost as mulch supports a healthy soil food web;  restoring ecological processes to degraded soils, while diverting valuable natural resources from landfills.

To learn more about compost and its benefits, visit www.GotCompost.com or call Harvest Blend Compost @ 805-347-9998 for helpful recorded info.

Harvest Blend Compost builds healthy soil!

Perennials Hibernate, Too!

Of all the seasons, winter has always been the toughest on our garden plants, since the elements become too harsh for tender plants to survive. When warmer temps plummet into near freezing numbers we find it’s best to prepare our landscape for the season ahead. Among our entire landscape, our perennial flower beds need the most attention.

As we know, perennial flowers are those that bloom year after year, making them a vital component of any landscape. Since perennials retreat underground during winter months, now is the perfect time to prepare the soil around them (carefully.) Putting our perennial flower beds to sleep is pretty much like hibernation for these plants. They lie dormant all winter, gathering nutrition and moisture from amended soil. Warmer spring soil allows them to burst forth, stronger and healthier than ever after a long winter’s nap.

Here is a step-by-step guide to putting your perennial flower beds to sleep:

Cut back all the flowers to the ground. Flowers, stems, leaves, cut everything you see down to ground level. Remember that these types of plants are tubers and bulbs. That’s why they stay alive even if everything visible is cut back; the heart of the plant is alive underground. We like to mark each plant/bulb with Popsicle sticks or (upside down) plastic spoons. This way, we won’t plant on top of existing bulbs in the spring.

Remove the mulch and weed your flower bed. Once you’re done cutting everything, it is time to get busy weeding. First, scrape off all the mulch on the flower bed then pull out all the weeds. Make sure you weed thoroughly, pulling out the roots of the weeds to make sure they don’t come back.

Aerate your flower beds. This doesn’t mean that you have to dig holes in the flower bed. You simply have to stick a pitchfork or small garden spade into the ground and wiggle it a bit. This will loosen your soil, making it easier for the nutrients to reach the roots. Just be careful, you wouldn’t want to hit any existing tubers or bulbs.

Now, spread a thick layer of compost evenly over the entire flower bed. Compost is very important because it adds vital nutrients and oxygen to soil, increasing soil organic matter and water holding capacity. Compost also serves as your flower bed’s protection against the harsh elements that winter may bring. When you spread your compost, make sure that you spread a very thick layer (3”- 4”) over the entire flower bed.

Depending on your location, the layer of compost may be all the protection your soil and bulbs require. If you choose, you may place mulch on your flower bed for some added protection. Once the compost has been spread, just add a fresh new layer of mulch. This will protect your perennials throughout the winter, allowing them to sleep comfortably during the cooler weather.

Follow these simple steps and come spring, you'll begin to see signs of color. Before long your perennials will be back, stronger and more beautiful than the year before!

STA Certified Harvest Blend Compost adds all the nutrients soil needs to increase SOM to the necessary 5% level. For a Harvest Blend Compost dealer near you, click. Or call Jim @ 805.925-2771. Harvest Blend Compost builds healthy soil – Naturally!

Visit the USCC's Strive for 5% Facebook page to learn more about the value SOM plays in creating healthy soil.

A New Year! Resolve to Keep it Clean

We've had an unusual amount of rain recently, which is both good news and bad news. Restoring depleted  water supplies is always a good thing, but how about the bad? Have you thought about the unexpected negative effects this rainfall may provide our lakes and streams? How on earth can organic yard waste contaminate bodies of water? On the Central Coast, rain flows across lawns or hard surfaces such as rooftops, paved areas, and bare soil. As it flows, this runoff water carries sediments, leaves, grass clippings, litter, and other landscape waste into streets and gutters leading to storm sewers. Unlike household wastewater, stormwater runoff receives almost no treatment. As a result any particles that enter the storm drain will probably end up in a stream or lake.

 

We have a problem when excess nutrients allow the growth of algae and rooted plants in lakes and streams. Too much algae in the water can use up valuable oxygen, kill fish, create bad odors, toxin production, and ugly surface scum.  Too many rooted aquatic plants can clog boat props, hamper fishing, pollute beaches and limit fish growth. Although plant material and nutrients slowly build up in lakes and streams, a neighborhood or community with poorly managed yard waste practices can be a major contributor to the problem and cause unnecessary degradation of lakes and streams.

What is Landscape Waste?

Sources of landscape waste include grass clippings, leaves, tree and shrub trimmings, organic mulch, and plant materials from vegetable and flower gardens. By weight, grass is the largest component averaging half of all yard waste. Leaves and brush each provide nearly one quarter. Other landscape wastes add less than 10 percent. On average, nearly 200 pounds of yard waste is produced per person each year.

Managing Landscape Waste. Controlling organic waste and reducing potential contamination of surface water can be accomplished in several ways. One way to control landscape waste is through source reduction. Amending soil with compost, grasscycling and lawn top dressing will reduce large amounts of landscape waste.

Grasscycling is the natural recycling of grass clippings by leaving them on the lawn when mowing. Leaving grass clippings saves time, money, and protects the environment. Mowing takes less time since bagging and disposal aren’t involved. The clippings add beneficial organic matter and nutrients to soil. This in turn reduces fertilizer and water needs, which can minimize nutrient runoff entering storm drains. Be sure to cut grass when the surface is dry, keep mower blades sharp and never blow, sweep or hose clippings onto the street.

Compost benefits
Amending heavy clay soils with compost improves water infiltration and drainage by improving soil structure. Compost also absorbs water and improves the water and nutrient holding capacity of sandy soils. To conserve moisture it is essential to have soil with good water retention. In addition to improving soil structure, decomposing compost will slowly release plant nutrients. Check out Google Maps for a Harvest Blend dealer near you.

Lawn Top dressing
Topdressing the lawn is the process of adding a layer of compost to the lawn surface. Top dressing benefits the lawn as it increases soil quality, adding nutrients and oxygen to plant roots. Sandy soils will be able to retain moisture better, and so the lawn will be more resistant to drought. Clay soils will drain better, thus improving root development. Another benefit of top dressing the lawn is that it will help to even out any lumps and bumps on an uneven lawn, making the surface safe for play. Top dressing also stimulates the grass to produce new shoots, resulting in denser grass cover, which helps combat the onset of weed growth.

Top dressing with aeration: aerating a lawn before top dressing will allow nutrients in the compost to reach the soil. This is the best treatment for hard, compacted soils. Professional aerators may be rented from equipment supply centers.

Using Landscape Waste as Mulch
Using an organic mulch can help gardens in many ways. Mulch reduces weeds by cutting off their oxygen, so they’re unable to grow. Mulch also maintains consistent moisture conditions in gardens. Water loss through evaporation is decreased and soil erosion is decreased by reducing the effect of heavy rainfall. Soil temperatures are modified by mulch. And last but not least organic mulch adds nutrients and humus to the soil as they decompose.

Tree and shrub trimmings are another source of yard waste. These materials are a greater challenge since they are woody and don’t break down easily. They need to be shredded or chipped for quicker decomposition and to reduce waste volume. Chippers and shredders may be available to rent at local landscape supply centers, so give ‘em a call. A 2- to 3-inch layer of shredded bark provides good weed control. Wood chips are slower to decay than shredded bark and can be used for pathway material in gardens. 

Limiting Landscape Waste

The best way to deal with landscape waste is to limit its production in the first place, or at least produce as little as possible. Choose trees and shrubs with their full growth in mind. Plants that need little or no pruning don’t produce much landscape waste. Sound yard waste management will benefit the landscape as well as surface and groundwater resources. No matter where you live, the size of your home, or the amount of time and money invested in the yard, everyone can do something to improve or maintain water quality.

Here are a few ways we can help insure clean water and a healthy environment through positive yard waste management.

• Add Harvest Blend Compost once or twice a year to build healthy soil and increase nutrients in the soil.
• Mow often enough to leave grass clippings on the lawn.
• Sweep grass clippings off of paved areas. Place them on the lawn or in a compost pile.
• Keep fallen leaves out of the street gutter or ditch, using them around the yard as practical or composting them.
• Do not dump yard waste down a storm drain or near surface water.
• Plan your landscape with the environment in mind, reducing intensely maintained areas.
• Recycle organic waste through sound composting practices and mulching.
• Mulch annual and perennial gardens with yard waste compost.
• Use organic mulch to suppress weeds, conserve soil moisture, and reduce soil erosion.

Have questions or concerns about compost use? Visit our website for more info. Naturally!