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Showing posts with label gardens. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gardens. Show all posts

Friday, June 21, 2013

Here Comes the Sun!

It’s June 21, summer solstice! The first day of summer and the longest day of the year! 

In sunny California, we should enjoy balmy temps until September or October; but gardeners must consider one more factor - the number of actual daylight hours. 
Less sunlight during the day means soil has to rely on stored heat to maintain proper conditions to support plant growth. Simply speaking, when the weather is warm plants will grow a little faster and when it’s cold they will grow a little slower, but the one consistent factor affecting plant growth is the change in day length. 
For example – if you’re planting lettuce and you want to harvest lettuce every week:
  • During summer and fall, your planting would be five or six days apart.
  • In late winter and spring your plantings would be ten or twelve days apart. 
Of course this is just an example; if you plan on evenly spacing your garden harvest, there are a number of internet references that can take the guess work out of planting.
Before getting started be sure to check the condition of your soil. Working a few inches of Harvest Blend Compost into garden plots will building healthy soil for fresh, healthy vegetables.
Now get out there and enjoy this lovely summer weather; enjoy prepping, planting and picking!
For more info, feel free to contact one of our field reps, or visit GotCompost.com


Friday, April 5, 2013

Can You Dig It - Twice?

Double Digging, just like it sounds, is the process of digging a plot of ground to twice the normal depth and transferring soil from the lower level to the top in order to revitalize it before planting.

Double digging helps the soil hold more water, improves aeration and places organic material at a depth that enables plant roots to fully extend. The technique of double digging and adding compost to build humus and soil fertility, is described as "growing the soil."

Double Dig Instructions
  1. Dig a trench one shovel-length deep (nine or ten inches) and the length of your planting area.
  2. Pile the soil in a wheelbarrow. You can also place soil in front of first trench, although the wheelbarrow method makes it easier to transport to last trench at end of double dig.
  3. Loosen the soil at the bottom of the trench another nine to ten inches. (Spading fork works great for this)
  4. Add organic material, such as compost, and using a spading fork, thoroughly mix compost into the subsoil.
  5. Dig a second trench parallel to the first and repeat steps 2 and 3.
  6. Use the topsoil from the second trench to fill the first one, adding more organic matter and mixing it in.
  7. Repeat the procedure until you've dug, enriched and amended the entire planting area.
  8. Fill the last trench with the topsoil you put in the wheelbarrow when you dug the first trench, enriching it with organic matter as you did before.
We know, the process of double digging involves more time and muscle, but your efforts will be rewarded when you harvest the tastiest, healthiest vegetables ever!
STA Certified Harvest Blend Compost is the perfect soil amendment; supplying vital nutrients and oxygen; improving soil structure and water-holding capacity, creating a healthy foundation for gardens and landscapes. Naturally! Click for a dealer near you.

 

Thursday, February 14, 2013

Plan BEFORE You Plant

Most seed packets offer planting recommendations – advice that is definitely there for your plants’ health! Make sure to check planting info regarding ‘frost dates.’ Yes, frost does happen in warmer climates, like California, so don’t go thinking your landscape is exempt from the cold.
This advice is important to follow since one frosty night can totally destroy tender seedlings. But how do you know when there's no more chance of frost?
Check out Victory Seeds' super easy to use calendar! All you have to do is click on your state for a list of larger cities and their average first and last frost dates.
Spring and fall frost dates are based on averages compiled over time. But remember—the type of frost those averages are referring to is known as a light frost/freeze, which means 29°F to 32°F.
Those of you in the know are aware there are plants that can be sown as soon as the soil is ready to be worked; spinach, peas and onions can withstand cooler soil temps. But you’ll need to wait for soil to warm up, and there’s no chance of frost, before planting tomatoes and peppers.
Note – soil takes a beating during winter months; cold temps and rain can destroy vital soil organic matter, leaving few nutrients behind to nourish growing plants. The easiest and most affordable fix is to add bulk compost to soil – allowing hard-working little microbes to build healthy soil for spring and summer gardens. Harvest Blend Compost is the perfect solution for problem soils! Click for a dealer near you.
If your efforts were too late (or too little) to protect plants from a frost, your first reaction will probably be to cut off the damaged parts of the plants. Do your best not to trim dead stuff, since these damaged leaves and stems will provide a little insulation from cooler temps. Hey, you’ll have to go back and re-prune your plants in spring anyway.
For more compost info please visit www.GotCompost.com
Feel free to contact Jim or Chuck for expert advice. Naturally!

Friday, January 25, 2013

Don't Let Soil Go Bankrupt

Our garden soil is like our bank account: In the long run, we can't afford to withdraw more than we deposit. When we harvest fruits, vegetables or flowers, we're making withdrawals.  Whenever we add organic matter to the soil or mulch to the surface, we're making deposits. Organic amendments fatten up the soil bank. They literally add life to poor soil, allowing excess water to drain away while leaving enough moisture for roots, and retain nutrients until feeder roots need them.
The weather we’ve experienced on the Central Coast this winter has been fierce and our poor soils’ bank balances have to be feeling the pinch. But there is a simple solution to this situation; just add compost!
Compost is the most nutrient rich, readily available soil amendment you can choose to improve soil conditions and replenish lost nutrients. It’s jam packed with beneficial microbes tired, sandy and compacted soils are lacking. The organic matter opens up the soil structure, increasing oxygen to plants’ root systems, helping them grow strong.
Compost is composed of the decaying remains of plants and animals. As it decomposes, organic matter releases nutrients that are absorbed by soil-dwelling microorganisms and bacteria. The combination of these creatures' waste products and their remains, called humus, binds with soil particles. In clay, it forces the tightly packed particles apart; drainage is improved, and the soil is easier for plant roots to penetrate. In sand, it lodges in the large pore spaces and acts as a sponge, slowing drainage so the soil stays moist longer.
Though the particular organic amendment you use is often decided simply by what's available at the best price, many experts favor compost over all other choices. Harvest Blend Compost is simply your best choice! It’s registered with the United States Composting Council Seal of Testing Assurance program (STA) – a compost testing, labeling and information disclosure program designed to give you the information you need to get the maximum benefit from the use of compost.  Only the highest quality compost is awarded the STA label. It’s your guarantee of excellence!
Adding amendments: when and how
Newly established beds should be amended with compost before any plants go into the ground.
In vegetable and flower beds: amend the soil before each new crop is planted. Compost is preferred by most gardeners, since it dramatically improves the soil's structure; adding oxygen and nutrients, improving soil structure for a healthy root system. Un-amended soil may dry into hard clods that small roots cannot penetrate, and plants may grow slowly, be stunted, or die as a result.
To add amendments to unplanted beds, spread the material evenly over the soil, then work it in by hand or with a rototiller to a depth of about 6-8 inches. If your soil is mostly clay or sand, spread 4 to 5 inches of amendment over it; once this is worked in, the top 8 inches of soil will be about half original soil, half amendment. If the soil is loamy or has been regularly amended each season, add just a 2- to 3-inch layer of amendment; you'll have a top 8-inch layer of about three-quarters original soil, one-quarter amendment.
For tired lawns, a fine layer of compost may be added 2x a year to bring grass back to life. The simple process of top dressing makes all the difference! If soil is compacted, you might want to aerate before adding compost - but either way you will enjoy a lush, green lawn in no time at all.
Permanent or semi-permanent plantings of trees, shrubs, or perennials benefit from added organic matter too, but you need to make sure not to damage plant roots. Most of the time all you need to do is to spread the compost over the soil surface as mulch; earthworms, microorganisms, rain, and irrigation water will all carry it downward over time, gradually improving the soil's top layer. If the plant isn't a shallow-rooted type (that is, if it doesn't have many roots concentrated near soil level), you can speed up the improvement process by working the amendment into the top inch or so of soil with a pitchfork. 
Bottom line – pay attention to soils’ ‘bank’ balance. The health and quality of your landscape depends on it!
For more info, visit www.GotCompost.com. If you have questions or concerns about compost and its uses, we’re happy to help. Naturally!