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Showing posts with label planting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label planting. Show all posts

Friday, January 3, 2014

Winter Planting on the Central Coast


With the holidays over, and some pretty nice temps, we can’t wait to get back to ‘work’ in the garden! While gardeners on the East Coast and in the Midwest may be busy trying to dig out of the snow and just dreaming of spring planting while looking at seed catalogs or online, gardeners here can still be actively enjoying their gardens.  Besides the usual garden cleanup - leaves to rake, pruning and dormant spraying of trees and bushes, gardeners on the Central Coast can still enjoy planting cool season crops.  Many people think nothing much can be planted in what seems to be the dead of winter, but there are a surprising number of things that can be put in the ground this time of year besides the usual bare root roses.
 
In the vegetable garden, we can plant asparagus, globe artichokes and rhubarb from roots and broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower from transplants, if you can find them in a nursery or garden center. Unfortunately the selection of vegetable plants available at local outlets is limited, so you might consider starting your own transplants from seed next year or get a head start on spring planting this year.  Carrots, kohlrabi, lettuce, parsley, peas, radishes and turnips can all be planted from seed.  Yes, I did say lettuce, which will tolerate some frost and can be grown all winter long in our area.  Think of fresh lettuce from your own garden, tender and sweet, not that stuff from the grocery store.  Leaf lettuce is the best bet, and most rewarding.  Did you know that head lettuce (aka Iceberg) was developed in the 1890's?  Iceberg became successful because its firm, round shape and long shelf life made it good for shipping long distances – for the first time people could have lettuce for salads the year around, not just summer.  The downside is that head lettuce just doesn't have the flavor of leaf lettuce, which tastes best when fresh.  Our favorite is a Bibb variety called Tom Thumb which produces sweet and tender miniature heads perfect an individual salad.  Just add a little dressing and enjoy!
 
A word about compost -
 
When planting, always add compost to your soil.  It is the best investment you can make in your garden and an essential step in garden preparation. Compost adds organic matter to your soil, increases water holding capacity, adds nutrients and improves soil health.  If you are preparing a garden bed, apply a layer of 2 to 4 inches of compost and work it into the soil before planting.  For planting bare root shrubs or trees (rose bushes, fruit trees, berries, etc.) add compost to the soil as you refill the hole in which you are plating them.  Add compost and watch your garden grow!
 
For all the details, visit Harvest Blend Compost or email info@harvestblendcompost.com
 
 
 

 

 

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

FALL PLANTING - IT'S NOT TOO LATE!


Winter may be right around the corner, but that’s no reason to put your gardening tools into storage.
November's cool fall evenings and normally warm sunny days give Central Coast gardeners one last opportunity to plant vegetables and flowers for the year.
Plant Hearty Flowers: Plenty of cool-season flowers are durable enough to withstand heavy rains, near freezing temperatures and even hot Santa Ana winds--almost anything that Mother Nature can throw our way this month. Check local nurseries for pansies, primrose, sweet alyssum, snapdragons, California wildflowers and calendula so they will be in full bloom in fall and winter. Flowers may last until spring.
Divide Existing Perennials: Divide perennials including Shasta daisies, daffodils, callas and yarrow. To divide, begin digging around the roots at the drip line so there is less chance of root damage as more roots will remain intact. Replant in well-composted soil and water generously until roots take hold.
A Vegetable Garden in November? Yep, gardeners who want fresh vegetables year-round have a variety of cool-season vegetables to plant in November. Beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, strawberries, celery, cabbage and broccoli can all be planted in November and will produce vegetables one to two months after planting.
Mulch Gardens:
Mulch is just as important in fall as it is in spring and summer. Spread a two-inch layer around gardens, bushes and trees. Weeds use any amount of rain to begin to grow. The layer of mulch keeps weeds in check. Mulch will also stop rain-producing mud from splashing onto garden plants. A layer of Harvest Blend Compost is the perfect material to use! Make sure to keep compost a few inches away from plant stems.
Top Dress Lawns:
When done the right way, the technique of “top-dressing,” or adding a thin layer of compost over lawns, can improve the soil without harming the existing turf. Top-dressing gradually improves soil over time. As organic matter breaks down, it filters through the existing soil to improve texture and overall health. 
To learn more about top dressing your lawn with compost (and other compost uses) email our friendly field reps, check out our website or call 805.925.2771

Friday, June 21, 2013

Here Comes the Sun!

It’s June 21, summer solstice! The first day of summer and the longest day of the year! 

In sunny California, we should enjoy balmy temps until September or October; but gardeners must consider one more factor - the number of actual daylight hours. 
Less sunlight during the day means soil has to rely on stored heat to maintain proper conditions to support plant growth. Simply speaking, when the weather is warm plants will grow a little faster and when it’s cold they will grow a little slower, but the one consistent factor affecting plant growth is the change in day length. 
For example – if you’re planting lettuce and you want to harvest lettuce every week:
  • During summer and fall, your planting would be five or six days apart.
  • In late winter and spring your plantings would be ten or twelve days apart. 
Of course this is just an example; if you plan on evenly spacing your garden harvest, there are a number of internet references that can take the guess work out of planting.
Before getting started be sure to check the condition of your soil. Working a few inches of Harvest Blend Compost into garden plots will building healthy soil for fresh, healthy vegetables.
Now get out there and enjoy this lovely summer weather; enjoy prepping, planting and picking!
For more info, feel free to contact one of our field reps, or visit GotCompost.com


Monday, March 11, 2013

Artichokes Are Here!

1st artichoke planted 3/3 - we'll keep you posted on it's progress!
Artichoke plants are now available in nurseries and garden centers on the Central Coast! 
Planting is simple: space transplants 4 to 6 feet apart, adding plenty of compost into the soil.  Shoots should be just above the soil surface. 
Be sure to add a layer of compost as mulch around the base of the plant to keep the roots cool in the summer and retain moisture. 
Water whenever the soil beneath the mulch dries out.  Cut the plants almost down to the ground after harvesting the first crop in June and they will regrow, giving you a second crop in the Fall.
They might not be the prettiest, and they may be a tad prickly but artichokes remain some of our favorite veggies! Treat 'em right and they keep on giving, naturally! Click for more info.

 

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

When Life Hands You Lemon Trees - Prune 'Em!

Lemon trees grow fast but that doesn’t mean we have to let them rule the yard. Pruning is vital to maintaining a healthy tree (and they’re very forgiving), so if you make what you feel was a major mistake, fear not. Give it a little time and the tree will grow past it. 
So why go to the trouble of pruning a lemon tree? To improve the health, beauty and growth of the tree, of course! Removing branches that appear sickly will stimulate growth in sparse areas of the tree, slowing down unwanted growth and conserving energy for fruit production.
This is also your chance to shape the tree any way you like (remember, it’s a forgiving tree.) Cut any sucker growth from below the graft and any growth on the trunk up to the first main branch.  Trim any branches that are growing cross ways in the tree and clean out branches in the center of the tree so air can circulate and light can get in. Click for a glossary of prunning terms.
Remove the growth that grows straight out of the top of the tree. Trim the limbs that hang down around the lower part of the tree so the 'skirt' of the tree is a couple feet above the ground. Most of your fruit will come from growth that has occurred in the last couple of years. By opening the center of the tree you will get bloom and fruit on the inside that is excellent quality.
Now, back up and look at the tree - if you can still see a few stray branches that need trimming, give 'em a *snip, snip* and you’re finished. When all looks good, take a seat, pour a glass of fresh lemonade and enjoy the view!
Of course, it's always a good idea to spread some high quality Harvest Blend Compost around the base of the tree to replenish soil organic matter, adding nutrients and increasing soil structure. Click for more info.


Thursday, February 14, 2013

Plan BEFORE You Plant

Most seed packets offer planting recommendations – advice that is definitely there for your plants’ health! Make sure to check planting info regarding ‘frost dates.’ Yes, frost does happen in warmer climates, like California, so don’t go thinking your landscape is exempt from the cold.
This advice is important to follow since one frosty night can totally destroy tender seedlings. But how do you know when there's no more chance of frost?
Check out Victory Seeds' super easy to use calendar! All you have to do is click on your state for a list of larger cities and their average first and last frost dates.
Spring and fall frost dates are based on averages compiled over time. But remember—the type of frost those averages are referring to is known as a light frost/freeze, which means 29°F to 32°F.
Those of you in the know are aware there are plants that can be sown as soon as the soil is ready to be worked; spinach, peas and onions can withstand cooler soil temps. But you’ll need to wait for soil to warm up, and there’s no chance of frost, before planting tomatoes and peppers.
Note – soil takes a beating during winter months; cold temps and rain can destroy vital soil organic matter, leaving few nutrients behind to nourish growing plants. The easiest and most affordable fix is to add bulk compost to soil – allowing hard-working little microbes to build healthy soil for spring and summer gardens. Harvest Blend Compost is the perfect solution for problem soils! Click for a dealer near you.
If your efforts were too late (or too little) to protect plants from a frost, your first reaction will probably be to cut off the damaged parts of the plants. Do your best not to trim dead stuff, since these damaged leaves and stems will provide a little insulation from cooler temps. Hey, you’ll have to go back and re-prune your plants in spring anyway.
For more compost info please visit www.GotCompost.com
Feel free to contact Jim or Chuck for expert advice. Naturally!

Friday, April 27, 2012

'Mini' Possibilities! Don't Let Lack of Space Keep You from Gardening

We’re so lucky. We live in an urban area but have enough room to support several garden areas and 2 small compost piles; used to supplement the fresh, bulk compost we purchase locally. This month we’ve enjoyed fresh lettuce (4 varieties), radishes and carrots, so it’s like a ready-made salad growing in our back yard! We’ve even had artichokes – a little on the small side, but delicious! Tomatoes, cucumbers and bell peppers are started – so before long we’ll have a real salad bar of veggies to choose from.
OK, so our veggie loving, Bay Area daughter visited us this past weekend; ooh-ing and ahh-ing over our mini harvest. Living in a small, upstairs apartment in the city, she resorts to shopping Trader Joe’s and the weekly Farmer’s Market in order to satisfy her ‘green tooth’. Of course we loaded her up with bags of lettuce, carrots and the like; but she wanted to know how to create her own little ‘slice of heaven’ with only a cement patio.
This got us to thinking…there are many people who never try gardening due to space issues. If they could see the pots of Tom Thumb Lettuce growing along our driveway, they might want to try it for themselves. One way to experience the joy of planting, tending to and then devouring your own crops is to find space in your local Community Garden. These plots are normally very affordable and allow you to get outside, get your hands dirty and plant (mostly) whatever you want.
Another method is container gardening. Like our mini heads of lettuce growing in terra cotta pots, many veggies do just fine in a confined space. Look for key words like: bush, compact, and space saver when seed or transplant shopping. The color of container matters! Be careful when using dark colored containers because they absorb heat which could possibly damage the plant roots. If you do use dark colored pots, try painting them a lighter color or shading just the container, not the plants.
Size: This is one case where size does matter. For larger vegetables like tomatoes and eggplants, you should use a five gallon container for each plant. You can grow these plants in two gallon containers; but you’ll need to give the plants quite a bit more water.
Soil: Raised-bed gardens have a lot of advantages. They elevate plants so it’s easier to work with them. The soil stays loose and friable with fewer weeds so plant roots can grow easily. Getting the right soil mix for your raised-bed garden can make all the difference in the success of your garden.
Please, don’t use regular garden soil to fill containers. Ordinary garden soil is loaded with weed seeds as well as diseases and even bugs – all of which can undo all your hard work. Ordinary garden soil may also contain a large amount of clay or silt that packs down in the box, closing off pore spaces that are needed to hold water and air for the roots.
Raised beds should therefore be filled with a weed-free mix of sand, loamy soil and compost. You can make your own, using Harvest Blend Compost – available at authorized dealers on the Central Coast. A 4-by-8-foot box, 8 inches deep, will take just under a cubic yard of mix to fill. If you use a commercial ‘three-way mix’ it can be heavy and a little short on nutrients. In this case, you might want to add an equal amount of compost to the mix to improve its texture.

What to plant?
The earth’s the limit! Veggies from Arugula to Zucchini (and everything in between) can be grown in containers. We don’t want to take up more space here so click the links for suggestions and valuable planting tips. Really, as long as you begin with healthy soil (thanks to organic matter in that compost) and water accordingly, you’ll be enjoying your own fresh, healthy mini harvest this summer. Naturally!
http://www.gotcompost/ for all the dirt on compost.

Friday, February 17, 2012

February Gardening Tips

The middle of February? Already?! We’re still feeling the sting of winter weather, maybe even using it as an excuse not to work in the garden. If you’re a dedicated gardener, you haven’t been wasting these precious weeks. And if you have neglected your planting beds, you definitely have time to prepare for spring.

Take a look at your trees, both shade and deciduous fruit trees. How about roses? These plants could undoubtedly use some help – a good pruning should do the trick. If you’re not familiar with correct pruning techniques it’s well worth the investment to hire a tree specialist. Hacking away at any old branch can spell trouble for these weather worn plants, possibly damaging future growth.

And did you know that February is bareroot season. Fruit trees, berries and roses are available for planting at a lower cost now than in the spring, when we find them in containers.  Be sure to dig a hole larger than the root spread of the tree, mixing in plenty of Harvest Blend Compost with the dirt, to use as backfill when planting. Click here for tips on using compost to plant and care for trees and shrubs.

Are you planning for your vegetable garden? You can start beets, lettuce and spinach indoors to plant out later when the weather warms a little. If you don’t have the latest seed catalogs lying around the house, click here, scroll down the page and you'll find links to some of our favorite suppliers.

Warm days/cold nights.  While February may see some warm days, nights will still be cold and there’s even danger of frost, so be prepared to protect tender plants. If you are unable to bring the plants indoors, try to group them together in a protected location up against the home or even under the eaves or a carport and cover them with a light blanket, sheets, tablecloth, polypropylene material or custom plant blankets or other cloth for the night. The south and west sides of the home are normally the warmest. If the container is too big to move, you can mulch around the container or wrap the base with a blanket or other cloth.

Covering a plant with cloth is one of the most effective ways of protecting a plant during extremely cold weather. Make sure the cover extends all the way to the ground so that it can trap in the heat. Plants do not produce heat but the soil does. Rocks and clothespins are effective ways to help keep the cover on and better insulate the plant from the elements. Be sure to remove the covers daily when the temps rise since the added weight of a wet cloth can break delicate branches. Wood stakes or tomato cages around the plant can keep the covering up and off the leaves. Small plants can also be covered with cardboard boxes placed upside down over the plant.

Don’t use plastic materials to cover your plants. Plastic can burn the leaves it touches on a cold night and it also cuts off air to the plant. In addition it acts as a greenhouse taking plants from nightly lows to much higher temperatures during the day. This rapid temperature change can cause serious freeze damage or can be fatal to plants.

And our favorite, Compost as mulch, protects soil from colder temps. For more on compost and its uses, visit www.GotCompost.com

Thursday, January 6, 2011

Wet Winter Garden Tips

January is usually a wet and cold month on the Central Coast, and 2011 is no exception. All that rain in December may have kept you out of the garden, but don't let a few puddles stop you. We should see more rain in January, along with cold days and very cold nights – so adding compost to your soil could do a world of good by replenishing lost nutrients. Gardeners on the East Coast and in the Midwest may be busy trying to dig out of the snow - dreaming of spring planting while drooling over seed catalogs - but we Central Coast gardeners can still actively enjoy our gardens. 

Besides the usual garden cleanup - leaves to rake, pruning and dormant spraying of trees and bushes, local gardeners can still enjoy planting cool season crops.  Many folks think nothing much can be planted in what seems to be the dead of winter, but there are a surprising number of things that can be put in the ground this time of year besides the usual bare root roses. Here are some suggestions for your vegetable garden:
  • asparagus
  • globe artichokes and rhubarb from roots
  • broccoli
  • cabbage and
  • cauliflower from transplants, if you can find them in a nursery or garden center.     
Unfortunately the selection of vegetable plants available at local outlets is limited, so you might consider starting your own transplants from seed next year, or get a head start on spring planting this year with a selection of seeds, such as:
  • carrots
  • kohlrabi
  • lettuce
  • parsley
  • peas
  • radishes
  • turnips
Yes, we did say lettuce, which will tolerate some frost and can be grown all winter long in our area. Think of fresh lettuce from your own garden, tender and sweet, not that stuff from the grocery store. Leaf lettuce is the best bet, and most rewarding.  Did you know that head lettuce (aka Iceberg) was developed in the 1890's?  Iceberg became successful because its firm, round shape and long shelf life made it good for shipping long distances – for the first time people could enjoy salads all year 'round, not just in the summer.  The downside is that head lettuce just doesn't have the flavor of leaf lettuce, which tastes best when fresh.  Our favorite is a Bibb variety called Tom Thumb which produces sweet and tender miniature heads perfect a "single salad" - just add a little dressing and enjoy!

A Word About Compost

Before planting, always add Harvest Blend Compost to your soil.  It is the best investment you can make in your garden and an essential step in garden preparation. Compost adds organic matter to your soil, increases water holding capacity, adds nutrients and improves soil health.  If you are preparing a garden bed, apply a layer of 2 to 4 inches of compost and work it into the soil before planting.  For planting bare root shrubs or trees (rose bushes, fruit trees, berries, etc.) add compost to the soil as you refill the hole in which you are plating them.  Add compost and watch your garden grow. Naturally!

Visit www.GotCompost for more info on Harvest Blend Compost

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Improve Soil Structure - protect your landscape during the winter months

At this time of year we need to make sure our garden soil is in the best shape possible. Cold temperatures and rain can destroy plant life, especially if soil is compacted, sandy or clay based. It isn’t easy to change a soil's basic texture, but you can improve its structure--making clay more porous, sand more water retentive--by adding amendments.


Compost is the most nutrient rich, readily available soil amendment you can choose to improve soil conditions. It’s jam packed with beneficial microbes tired, sandy and compacted soils are lacking. The organic matter opens up the soil structure, increasing oxygen to plants’ root systems, helping them grow strong.
Compost is composed of the decaying remains of plants and animals. As it decomposes, organic matter releases nutrients that are absorbed by soil-dwelling microorganisms and bacteria. The combination of these creatures' waste products and their remains, called humus, binds with soil particles. In clay, it forces the tightly packed particles apart; drainage is improved, and the soil is easier for plant roots to penetrate. In sand, it lodges in the large pore spaces and acts as a sponge, slowing drainage so the soil stays moist longer.

Though the particular organic amendment you use is often decided simply by what's available at the best price, many experts favor compost over all other choices. Harvest Blend Compost is simply your best choice! It’s registered with the United States Composting Council Seal of Testing Assurance program (STA) – a compost testing, labeling and information disclosure program designed to give you the information you need to get the maximum benefit from the use of compost. Only the highest quality compost is awarded the STA label. It’s your guarantee of excellence!

Adding amendments: when and how
New beds for landscape plants should be amended before any plants go into the ground. For long-term benefits, choose an amendment that breaks down slowly. Shredded bark and peat moss hold their structure the longest, taking several years to decompose. It's a good idea to include compost in the mix as well; though it breaks down in just a few months, it bolsters the initial nutrient supply available to soil microorganisms--and these will contribute humus to the soil, improve soil aeration, and help protect your new plants from some diseases.

In vegetable and flower beds: amend the soil before each new crop is planted. Compost is preferred by most gardeners, since they dramatically improve the soil's structure, making it hospitable to the fine, tiny roots of seedlings. Un-amended soil may dry into hard clods that small roots cannot penetrate, and plants may grow slowly, be stunted, or die as a result. Compost will break down after several months--so be sure to add more before you plant each crop.


To add amendments to unplanted beds, spread the material evenly over the soil, then work it in by hand or with a rototiller to a depth of about 6-8 inches. If your soil is mostly clay or sand, spread 4 to 5 inches of amendment over it; once this is worked in, the top 8 inches of soil will be about half original soil, half amendment. If the soil is loamy or has been regularly amended each season, add just a 2- to 3-inch layer of amendment; you'll have a top 8-inch layer of about three-quarters original soil, one-quarter amendment.

Permanent or semi-permanent plantings of trees, shrubs, or perennials benefit from soil amendment too, but you need to do the job without damaging plant roots. It's often sufficient simply to spread the amendment over the soil surface as mulch; earthworms, microorganisms, rain, and irrigation water will all carry it downward over time, gradually improving the soil's top layer. If the plant isn't a shallow-rooted type (that is, if it doesn't have many roots concentrated near soil level), you can speed up the improvement process by working the amendment into the top inch or so of soil, using a three-pronged cultivator.

Where the climate is generally mild and winters are rainy, amend the soil in established plantings annually after fall cleanup. In cold-winter regions with spring and summer rainfall, do the job as you begin spring gardening.

For more info, visit
www.GotCompost.com If you have questions or concerns about compost and it’s uses, we’re happy to help. Naturally!

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Grounds for...a Successful Garden!

OK, now we’ve had a little fall rain to moisten the soil and wash away a little of the dust blown in by our lovely Santa Maria “breeze”. This is the perfect time to take a look at your garden, or if you don’t have one yet, to plan one. The best way to insure a successful harvest is to start from the ground up – take a look at your soil. Better yet, feel your soil. Is it hard and compacted? Maybe the soil is clay based or too sandy. Any of these conditions will make it tough for roots to find room to grow and for soil to retain water. What to do, what to do...

Amend that soil with compost!

Working compost into the soil before planting will

  • Improve root systems
  • Reduce erosion
  • Save Water
  • Stabilize soil pH
  • Supply nutrients, microbes, & organic matter
  • Suppress plant disease
  • Bind and degrade pollutants

Sound too good to be true? It’s not! Harvest Blend Compost is the ultimate “soil conditioner” – it fixes what’s wrong with the soil, giving plants the boost they need to grow big and strong.

What if I don't have room for a garden?
Hey, lack of space is no excuse not to plant some type of garden. City dwellers plant in window boxes and on balconies. We’re hearing about more homeowners replacing lawns with more useful (not to mention edible) vegetable gardens. Have you heard about roof gardens? How great would it be to harvest a healthy, delicious salad from a plot right outside, or above, your door? Look around your home and garden, surely there's an empty nook or cranny just waiting to be used.


Remember, the key to a successful garden is starting with a good foundation – healthy soil. If all we ate was junk food and didn’t condition our bodies, how unproductive would we be? Plants are no different; they need a source of nutrients, water and healthy earth in which to grow. Naturally!

Next time - we'll focus on the particulars of planting a winter garden. Thanks for checking in!


Healthy soil starts here – Harvest Blend Compost. For planting tips and compost info, visit www.GotCompost.com