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Showing posts with label compost. Show all posts
Showing posts with label compost. Show all posts

Friday, June 17, 2016

Reducing water in the garden

We’re often asked questions about gardening and compost use, many of which concern conserving water. We hope the info below will be of interest to some of you. If you have any questions you’d like answered, or just want to share your gardening stories, please ‘Like’ us on Facebook and post away. We’d love to hear from you!

Q: My kids want to plant a vegetable garden this summer. I’d like to get started on this project but gardens use a lot of water. Is there anything I can do to conserve water, hopefully not see an increase on my water bill and still enjoy fresh, healthy veggies from our own garden?

A: You bet! There are many ways to use water efficiently in your garden and significantly reduce your use. First, you'll want to consider what vegetables you want to grow. Peas and corn need more water, while vine plants and tomatoes require less.
Make sure to group water dependent plants together. This way, the majority of your water is directed to the areas that need it most, while keeping the rest dry. Your next step is to come up with strategies to use water more efficiently.
Drip lines and raised bed gardening are two excellent ways to conserve. Drip lines deliver water close to the base of the plant, which allows for deeper penetration and encourages the development of a strong and more extensive root system. They are easy to install and can reduce your gardening water needs up to 50 percent. Growing plants in raised beds will decrease the amount of weeds in the garden, which will draw water away from your vegetables.
Many cities offer rebates to residents and businesses taking part in water-wise landscape methods. Check out the Smart Landscape Rebate Program available in Santa Barbara County. Program requirements may vary slightly depending on your service area, so please click for water wise info for your area.
Soil amended with compost is a great way to manage soil moisture! Growing plants in garden beds containing soil that’s been enriched with compost is another way to increase efficiency. Soil that contains compost is able to hold significantly more water than the typical California soil.
STA Certified Harvest Blend Compost builds healthy soil; adding soil organic matter; improving soil structure, increasing water holding capacity. For more information email info@harvestblendcompost.com or visit www.GotCompost.com

 

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

FALL PLANTING - IT'S NOT TOO LATE!


Winter may be right around the corner, but that’s no reason to put your gardening tools into storage.
November's cool fall evenings and normally warm sunny days give Central Coast gardeners one last opportunity to plant vegetables and flowers for the year.
Plant Hearty Flowers: Plenty of cool-season flowers are durable enough to withstand heavy rains, near freezing temperatures and even hot Santa Ana winds--almost anything that Mother Nature can throw our way this month. Check local nurseries for pansies, primrose, sweet alyssum, snapdragons, California wildflowers and calendula so they will be in full bloom in fall and winter. Flowers may last until spring.
Divide Existing Perennials: Divide perennials including Shasta daisies, daffodils, callas and yarrow. To divide, begin digging around the roots at the drip line so there is less chance of root damage as more roots will remain intact. Replant in well-composted soil and water generously until roots take hold.
A Vegetable Garden in November? Yep, gardeners who want fresh vegetables year-round have a variety of cool-season vegetables to plant in November. Beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, strawberries, celery, cabbage and broccoli can all be planted in November and will produce vegetables one to two months after planting.
Mulch Gardens:
Mulch is just as important in fall as it is in spring and summer. Spread a two-inch layer around gardens, bushes and trees. Weeds use any amount of rain to begin to grow. The layer of mulch keeps weeds in check. Mulch will also stop rain-producing mud from splashing onto garden plants. A layer of Harvest Blend Compost is the perfect material to use! Make sure to keep compost a few inches away from plant stems.
Top Dress Lawns:
When done the right way, the technique of “top-dressing,” or adding a thin layer of compost over lawns, can improve the soil without harming the existing turf. Top-dressing gradually improves soil over time. As organic matter breaks down, it filters through the existing soil to improve texture and overall health. 
To learn more about top dressing your lawn with compost (and other compost uses) email our friendly field reps, check out our website or call 805.925.2771

Friday, July 5, 2013

PROTECT PLANTS FROM SUMMER HEAT - MULCH!

Summer has arrived on the Central Coast! We may enjoy the warm (hot!) weather but our overheated lawns and gardens need protection from soaring temps. In other words, it’s time to mulch.

Mulch is any material that protects the soil surface and allows air and water through. Organic mulches –mulches derived from plant materials, such as compost –not only protect the soil but add nutrients over time while enriching overall soil composition.

Mulch reduces evaporation from the soil surface, moderates soil temperature, and insulates roots from summer heat (and winter cold). Mulch suppresses weeds, reduces soil compaction, prevents erosion, and adds organic matter to the soil.

Summer mulch -
Apply 2-3” of compost around plants at midsummer to protect plants from hot weather and reduce the soil temperature by 10°F or more. Soil temperatures greater than 85°F can slow plant growth. The temperature of soil under mulch changes much more slowly.
Mulch protects bare soil from being compacted over time by the drying of soil particles in the sun and the beating of rain or irrigation. A thin layer of mulch will protect soil microorganisms and other beneficial soil borne organisms from cooking in the summer heat.
Almost all plants benefit from the protection of mulch. Vegetables that most benefit from summer mulching are eggplants, tomatoes, cauliflower, celery, potatoes, currants, and gooseberries. These crops especially appreciate cool, loose, well-drained soil.

Applying mulch -
Two cubic feet of compost mulch can cover an area of 8 square feet to 3 inches deep; one cubic yard of compost mulch covers an area of 108 square feet to 3 inches deep.
Mulch should be applied loosely and not compacted. Mulch should be kept back a few inches from the stems or crowns of plants and trunks of trees. If placed too closely, mulch can retain moisture and cause plant stems and trunks to rot.

Water can be delivered to plant roots through mulch into the soil. Drips systems set under mulch will more directly apply water to the root zone. Mulch can control insects and diseases, reducing or eliminating the spread of fungal spores often spread by the splashing of irrigation water or rain.

For more info visit GotCompost.com 


Friday, June 21, 2013

Here Comes the Sun!

It’s June 21, summer solstice! The first day of summer and the longest day of the year! 

In sunny California, we should enjoy balmy temps until September or October; but gardeners must consider one more factor - the number of actual daylight hours. 
Less sunlight during the day means soil has to rely on stored heat to maintain proper conditions to support plant growth. Simply speaking, when the weather is warm plants will grow a little faster and when it’s cold they will grow a little slower, but the one consistent factor affecting plant growth is the change in day length. 
For example – if you’re planting lettuce and you want to harvest lettuce every week:
  • During summer and fall, your planting would be five or six days apart.
  • In late winter and spring your plantings would be ten or twelve days apart. 
Of course this is just an example; if you plan on evenly spacing your garden harvest, there are a number of internet references that can take the guess work out of planting.
Before getting started be sure to check the condition of your soil. Working a few inches of Harvest Blend Compost into garden plots will building healthy soil for fresh, healthy vegetables.
Now get out there and enjoy this lovely summer weather; enjoy prepping, planting and picking!
For more info, feel free to contact one of our field reps, or visit GotCompost.com


Friday, May 17, 2013

FRESH TOMATOES - Enjoy the fruits of your labor!

Homegrown tomatoes VS store bought varieties – there’s just no contest. We make due with lower quality supermarket specials when necessary but come spring and summer, we have no excuse to settle for less.

Temps are perfect for tomato planting now, so let’s get growing!

  • Check local garden centers for a selection of tomato transplants. If you have a certain tomato in mind and are unable to find seedlings, check out the seed dept. for heirloom and specialty types. Growing from seed will lengthen the process, so unless you just have to just have that "Darby Pink-Yellow Striped" Heirloom variety, you’re better off planting a reliable ‘Early Girl’ transplant.
  • Now that you have your tomato seedlings in hand, it’s time to plant! Choose a site that gets full sun and has soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Tomatoes need plenty of warmth to taste their best - give growing plants protection from cool breezes with a windbreak of trees, a garden wall or a vine-covered trellis.
  • Plants need a healthy foundation, so make sure to amend the soil with plenty of compost. Tomatoes need soil rich in organic matter, and the best, most affordable method of increasing soil organic matter is through a good application of compost.
  • Harden off seedlings, whether store-bought or homegrown, and move them to the garden when nighttime temperatures remain above 50 degrees F.
  • Dig a hole the size of a basketball for each plant. Add a shovelful of compost to each hole.
  • Set the plants 12 to 18 inches apart depending on variety (see the seed packet or plant label). Plant them deeply - up to the fourth branch from the top - to encourage new root development.
  • Place a paper collar around each plant to deter cutworms, and cover the plants with cloches or floating row covers to protect them from insects and cool temperatures.
  • Remove the covers when the weather has warmed, mulch the soil and install any supports the plants will need as they grow.
  • Make sure plants get between one and two inches of water every two weeks after transplanting; after the first flowers appear; when the fruits reach the size of golf balls and when you spot the first ripe tomato.
  • And finally - pick tomatoes when their color is glossy and even, and their texture midway between soft and firm.
We don’t have to tell you what to do next, do we? Enjoy your tasty tomatoes fresh from the garden, as the 'T' in a BLT or as a fresh topping for homemade pizza.
Need compost for your garden? Contact one of our helpful Field Reps at 805.925.2771
 
 
 
Check out USCC's #MillionTomatoes compost campaign

Friday, April 5, 2013

Can You Dig It - Twice?

Double Digging, just like it sounds, is the process of digging a plot of ground to twice the normal depth and transferring soil from the lower level to the top in order to revitalize it before planting.

Double digging helps the soil hold more water, improves aeration and places organic material at a depth that enables plant roots to fully extend. The technique of double digging and adding compost to build humus and soil fertility, is described as "growing the soil."

Double Dig Instructions
  1. Dig a trench one shovel-length deep (nine or ten inches) and the length of your planting area.
  2. Pile the soil in a wheelbarrow. You can also place soil in front of first trench, although the wheelbarrow method makes it easier to transport to last trench at end of double dig.
  3. Loosen the soil at the bottom of the trench another nine to ten inches. (Spading fork works great for this)
  4. Add organic material, such as compost, and using a spading fork, thoroughly mix compost into the subsoil.
  5. Dig a second trench parallel to the first and repeat steps 2 and 3.
  6. Use the topsoil from the second trench to fill the first one, adding more organic matter and mixing it in.
  7. Repeat the procedure until you've dug, enriched and amended the entire planting area.
  8. Fill the last trench with the topsoil you put in the wheelbarrow when you dug the first trench, enriching it with organic matter as you did before.
We know, the process of double digging involves more time and muscle, but your efforts will be rewarded when you harvest the tastiest, healthiest vegetables ever!
STA Certified Harvest Blend Compost is the perfect soil amendment; supplying vital nutrients and oxygen; improving soil structure and water-holding capacity, creating a healthy foundation for gardens and landscapes. Naturally! Click for a dealer near you.

 

Monday, March 11, 2013

Artichokes Are Here!

1st artichoke planted 3/3 - we'll keep you posted on it's progress!
Artichoke plants are now available in nurseries and garden centers on the Central Coast! 
Planting is simple: space transplants 4 to 6 feet apart, adding plenty of compost into the soil.  Shoots should be just above the soil surface. 
Be sure to add a layer of compost as mulch around the base of the plant to keep the roots cool in the summer and retain moisture. 
Water whenever the soil beneath the mulch dries out.  Cut the plants almost down to the ground after harvesting the first crop in June and they will regrow, giving you a second crop in the Fall.
They might not be the prettiest, and they may be a tad prickly but artichokes remain some of our favorite veggies! Treat 'em right and they keep on giving, naturally! Click for more info.

 

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

When Life Hands You Lemon Trees - Prune 'Em!

Lemon trees grow fast but that doesn’t mean we have to let them rule the yard. Pruning is vital to maintaining a healthy tree (and they’re very forgiving), so if you make what you feel was a major mistake, fear not. Give it a little time and the tree will grow past it. 
So why go to the trouble of pruning a lemon tree? To improve the health, beauty and growth of the tree, of course! Removing branches that appear sickly will stimulate growth in sparse areas of the tree, slowing down unwanted growth and conserving energy for fruit production.
This is also your chance to shape the tree any way you like (remember, it’s a forgiving tree.) Cut any sucker growth from below the graft and any growth on the trunk up to the first main branch.  Trim any branches that are growing cross ways in the tree and clean out branches in the center of the tree so air can circulate and light can get in. Click for a glossary of prunning terms.
Remove the growth that grows straight out of the top of the tree. Trim the limbs that hang down around the lower part of the tree so the 'skirt' of the tree is a couple feet above the ground. Most of your fruit will come from growth that has occurred in the last couple of years. By opening the center of the tree you will get bloom and fruit on the inside that is excellent quality.
Now, back up and look at the tree - if you can still see a few stray branches that need trimming, give 'em a *snip, snip* and you’re finished. When all looks good, take a seat, pour a glass of fresh lemonade and enjoy the view!
Of course, it's always a good idea to spread some high quality Harvest Blend Compost around the base of the tree to replenish soil organic matter, adding nutrients and increasing soil structure. Click for more info.


Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Bare-Root Roses - It's Now or Never (or next year)

With the planting season continuing through February, there's still time to buy bare-root plants. Those of us on the central coast can find a nice selection of bare-root roses at local garden and landscape centers on the Central Coast.

When you're ready to plant, follow these instructions to ensure healthy plants and vibrant blooms:

Prune any broken of dead stems and soak plants in a bucket of water for an hour or so before planting.  Dig a hole twice the size of the root length, mix compost into the soil you remove from the hole and build a small hill at the bottom of the hole, spread the roots evenly around the hill and fill the hole with the compost-amended soil.  Spread its roots, then backfill while adding water. Firm the soil around the plant. Note - Adding organic matter to soil supplies oxygen and nutrients important for a healthy root system.

Make sure the rose bush is planted at the same level in the new hole as it was in the ground originally (the bark will be lighter below the ground level on the trunk).  Build a basin around the plant and water thoroughly to settle soil. 

Last but not least, place a 2 inch layer of compost around the base of the rose as a mulch to conserve moisture, add organic matter and protect the soil. Naturally!

Click for more on compost uses and benefits│Need expert help? Contact Jim or Chuck

 

Thursday, February 14, 2013

Plan BEFORE You Plant

Most seed packets offer planting recommendations – advice that is definitely there for your plants’ health! Make sure to check planting info regarding ‘frost dates.’ Yes, frost does happen in warmer climates, like California, so don’t go thinking your landscape is exempt from the cold.
This advice is important to follow since one frosty night can totally destroy tender seedlings. But how do you know when there's no more chance of frost?
Check out Victory Seeds' super easy to use calendar! All you have to do is click on your state for a list of larger cities and their average first and last frost dates.
Spring and fall frost dates are based on averages compiled over time. But remember—the type of frost those averages are referring to is known as a light frost/freeze, which means 29°F to 32°F.
Those of you in the know are aware there are plants that can be sown as soon as the soil is ready to be worked; spinach, peas and onions can withstand cooler soil temps. But you’ll need to wait for soil to warm up, and there’s no chance of frost, before planting tomatoes and peppers.
Note – soil takes a beating during winter months; cold temps and rain can destroy vital soil organic matter, leaving few nutrients behind to nourish growing plants. The easiest and most affordable fix is to add bulk compost to soil – allowing hard-working little microbes to build healthy soil for spring and summer gardens. Harvest Blend Compost is the perfect solution for problem soils! Click for a dealer near you.
If your efforts were too late (or too little) to protect plants from a frost, your first reaction will probably be to cut off the damaged parts of the plants. Do your best not to trim dead stuff, since these damaged leaves and stems will provide a little insulation from cooler temps. Hey, you’ll have to go back and re-prune your plants in spring anyway.
For more compost info please visit www.GotCompost.com
Feel free to contact Jim or Chuck for expert advice. Naturally!

Friday, January 25, 2013

Don't Let Soil Go Bankrupt

Our garden soil is like our bank account: In the long run, we can't afford to withdraw more than we deposit. When we harvest fruits, vegetables or flowers, we're making withdrawals.  Whenever we add organic matter to the soil or mulch to the surface, we're making deposits. Organic amendments fatten up the soil bank. They literally add life to poor soil, allowing excess water to drain away while leaving enough moisture for roots, and retain nutrients until feeder roots need them.
The weather we’ve experienced on the Central Coast this winter has been fierce and our poor soils’ bank balances have to be feeling the pinch. But there is a simple solution to this situation; just add compost!
Compost is the most nutrient rich, readily available soil amendment you can choose to improve soil conditions and replenish lost nutrients. It’s jam packed with beneficial microbes tired, sandy and compacted soils are lacking. The organic matter opens up the soil structure, increasing oxygen to plants’ root systems, helping them grow strong.
Compost is composed of the decaying remains of plants and animals. As it decomposes, organic matter releases nutrients that are absorbed by soil-dwelling microorganisms and bacteria. The combination of these creatures' waste products and their remains, called humus, binds with soil particles. In clay, it forces the tightly packed particles apart; drainage is improved, and the soil is easier for plant roots to penetrate. In sand, it lodges in the large pore spaces and acts as a sponge, slowing drainage so the soil stays moist longer.
Though the particular organic amendment you use is often decided simply by what's available at the best price, many experts favor compost over all other choices. Harvest Blend Compost is simply your best choice! It’s registered with the United States Composting Council Seal of Testing Assurance program (STA) – a compost testing, labeling and information disclosure program designed to give you the information you need to get the maximum benefit from the use of compost.  Only the highest quality compost is awarded the STA label. It’s your guarantee of excellence!
Adding amendments: when and how
Newly established beds should be amended with compost before any plants go into the ground.
In vegetable and flower beds: amend the soil before each new crop is planted. Compost is preferred by most gardeners, since it dramatically improves the soil's structure; adding oxygen and nutrients, improving soil structure for a healthy root system. Un-amended soil may dry into hard clods that small roots cannot penetrate, and plants may grow slowly, be stunted, or die as a result.
To add amendments to unplanted beds, spread the material evenly over the soil, then work it in by hand or with a rototiller to a depth of about 6-8 inches. If your soil is mostly clay or sand, spread 4 to 5 inches of amendment over it; once this is worked in, the top 8 inches of soil will be about half original soil, half amendment. If the soil is loamy or has been regularly amended each season, add just a 2- to 3-inch layer of amendment; you'll have a top 8-inch layer of about three-quarters original soil, one-quarter amendment.
For tired lawns, a fine layer of compost may be added 2x a year to bring grass back to life. The simple process of top dressing makes all the difference! If soil is compacted, you might want to aerate before adding compost - but either way you will enjoy a lush, green lawn in no time at all.
Permanent or semi-permanent plantings of trees, shrubs, or perennials benefit from added organic matter too, but you need to make sure not to damage plant roots. Most of the time all you need to do is to spread the compost over the soil surface as mulch; earthworms, microorganisms, rain, and irrigation water will all carry it downward over time, gradually improving the soil's top layer. If the plant isn't a shallow-rooted type (that is, if it doesn't have many roots concentrated near soil level), you can speed up the improvement process by working the amendment into the top inch or so of soil with a pitchfork. 
Bottom line – pay attention to soils’ ‘bank’ balance. The health and quality of your landscape depends on it!
For more info, visit www.GotCompost.com. If you have questions or concerns about compost and its uses, we’re happy to help. Naturally!

Sunday, December 2, 2012

Want to Recycle Organic Materials? Location Matters!

 

Doing some traveling over the past few months, we've paid attention to trash and recycling collection practices in a variety of locations in California. This post focuses on the Bay Area; Menlo Park, to be exact. Whoa, life must be pretty exciting if a highlight of our visit was spotting bins specifically for compostable materials!
 
But this is a topic of interest because recycling practices vary so drastically from one area of our state to another; and undoubtedly, across the country. If Menlo Park, San Francisco and San Jose have designated bins for compostable materials, in addition to recyclables and normal everyday trash, why can’t the rest of the country do the same? On the Central Coast, some cities have passed ordinances requiring collection of Green Waste – with a slight rise in collection fees (approximately $3). This is a move in the right direction, but when we think about all the food scraps and coffee grounds heading for the landfill, we’re sorry to see these resources being wasted.
Recycling isn’t just for glass and metal. Potato peelings, egg shells, tea bags and coffee grounds (don’t forget the filter!) can be recycled into compost. And that’s just the tip of the iceberg (lettuce); almost all food waste, paper goods – such as paper plates and napkins – and clean wood products, like coffee stirrers, can be transformed into nutrient rich compost.
In our little community on the Central Coast of California, we faithfully truck our recycle bins out to the curb one week; and our green waste bins go out the next. With no compost bin for collection of food scraps, coffee/coffee filters, cardboard, etc., we’re forced to waste these resources or do what we do – compost this stuff at home. All well and good for the environment, but when we need a decent amount of compost for lawn top dressing, laying sod or amending soil for our annual vegetable garden; buying fresh, local, bulk compost is the way to go.
Bins for compostable materials need to be available across the country; with collected organic materials sent to the nearest Regional Compost Facility. These facilities provide the freshest soil products to the public - ready to be put back into the earth building healthy soil to grow crops and improve lawns and gardens. The re-use of recycled materials has a few labels, but we call this ‘Completing the Cycle.’
So, to free up landfill space and improve the environment we should:
1.    collect organic materials
2.    recycle these material for transformation into compost
3.    purchase bulk compost
4.    use compost to build healthy soil
Working together, we can do this. Naturally! Click for more info
Need compost for your next project? Call (805) 925-2771 and ask for Jim or Chuck.
Harvest Blend Compost is available at authorized dealers in San Luis and Santa Barbara Counties.


Wednesday, October 31, 2012

A Pumpkin is a Terrible Thing to Waste

The facts are, each year in the US, one billion pounds of pumpkins are produced. That adds up to at least 100 million pounds of the big orange squash in every state!

All this pumpkin production must mean we're pretty fond of the large gourd. So if we asked what you loved most about pumpkins, what answer do you suppose we’d get? Yeah we know, pumpkin pie is delish and Jack-O-Lanterns are fun. But what’s even better is the fact the entire pumpkin is compostable; making proper disposal a no-brainer.
Pumpkins are a unique holiday decoration in that they are totally natural, but most of the ‘nature’ is tossed in the trash once they’re carved. What a shame, letting a natural resource like this go to waste. Literally. So, how can you make sure that the entire pumpkin is being used and not put into a landfill? Simple – COMPOST IT!
Check www.GotCompost.com  for more information on compost; how compost is made; its uses and benefits. In a nutshell, compost is the decomposition of organic materials to produce nutrient-rich soil enhancer.
Pumpkin seeds themselves are a strong source of nutrients, including zinc, iron and phosphorus. These are all great additions to a compost pile, unless you’re like our kids and you wash and toast those precious seeds for a tasty snack. Now that you know why it’s important to compost, let’s figure out the best way to recycle that pumpkin.
Whether or not you have a compost pile in your yard, there are ways to make it happen. Compost piles rely on a mix of nitrogen-rich greens (which will include pumpkin components) and browns (leaves, paper and other carbon-rich materials). Many communities now offer greenwaste collection along with weekly trash pickup; so if you don’t have your own backyard pile, just toss those gooey, stringy ‘guts’ into your greenwaste bin.
After your Jack-O-Lantern has done its job and begins shriveling up on your porch, you’re free to dispose of it in the most natural way possible. Some folks like to smash the shell before composting or placing in the greenwaste container. Instead of rotting in the landfill, pumpkins will travel to the nearest Regional Compost Facility where they’ll be combined with other locally collected organic materials, and be transformed into premium compost products.
And the cool thing is; compost made with recycled pumpkins may be put back into the earth where it will build healthy soil to grow new pumpkins! This is what we call ‘Completing the Cycle!’ – the most environmentally responsible method of recycling there is.
Did you know that compost has a number of uses and benefits? In addition to being the best soil amendment there is, compost can also be used to improve flower and vegetable gardens and top dress lawns.
So there you go! Don’t waste that pumpkin, compost it! Naturally!

Friday, October 19, 2012

SCHOOL GARDENS - Providing a wealth of learning opportunities

Yep, school is definitely back in session. We know this because we’ve been getting calls from schools in Santa Barbara County, requesting compost and topsoil to establish, improve and/or maintain school gardens.
 Educational Benefits
A garden has to be designed and laid out, providing a chance to utilize planning and math skills in a group setting. Soil preparation is an opportunity to learn about the importance of soil organic matter, earthworms and general soil ecology. Plant selection and placement require research and more math. As the plants grow, students will have to determine the most efficient way to irrigate and control weeds.
The Value of Sharing
When the garden begins to produce, students are rewarded for their hard work in ways that often leave lasting impressions. In some cases, a portion of the garden crop is donated to a local food bank or other worthwhile agency. Some schools use their harvest in their cafeteria. Others encourage students to share their bounty with family and friends. The common thread that runs through these programs is the joy children derive from sharing their harvest with others.
School Pride
It's known that students involved in any campus project are more likely to have a caring attitude about their school. We know that when students work hard to plan and install a beautiful garden, they develop a sense of pride in their school surroundings that might not otherwise occur.
Field Trips to Engel & Gray Regional Compost Facility
Engel & Gray invites classes to tour our Regional Compost Facility. Please plan for your visit and contact our office at least 30 days in advance. Our field trips are available for grades 3 and up. The approximately one hour tour will include the following:
  • An overview of the compost site
  • A description of the process turning yard trimmings and food scraps into compost and mulch
  • A discussion of the importance of reuse and recycling
  • Promoting the ‘Completing the Cycle’ message
  • Coloring page featuring “Mike Robe – the busiest microbe in the windrow!”
For tour information - please call 805-925-2771
Product Donations
Engel & Gray Regional Compost Facility and Harvest Blend Compost are proud supporters of Central Coast School Garden programs ~ believing there is no better environment than the garden in which to - Plant the seeds of knowledge; experience the joy of learning and harvest a bountiful crop of lifelong learners. Naturally!
Need compost for your school garden? Give us a call @ 805-925-2771 and ask for Jim or Chuck. You can also reach them at Jim@EngelandGray.com or Chuck@EngelandGray.com

Thursday, August 9, 2012

GOT MULCH? Mulching protects plants from heat

Here on the Central Coast we seem to be experiencing a minor heat wave; this means a little extra TLC is needed for landscapes and gardens. Without some human help, a heat wave can wipe out a vegetable garden in just a couple of days.

The high temperatures of a heat wave damage a plant in several ways. First, there's the evaporation of soil moisture, which robs the roots of water. A heat wave will also dehydrate a plant by extracting moisture through the leaves and stem. Finally, the hot rays of the sun can sunburn the leaves, turning them a pale yellow-to-tan color which eventually die and fall off. Protecting your vegetable garden from a heat wave means slowing down the loss of water and minimizing sun damage. Here's how it's done:
Mulch, mulch, mulch │ Mulch is more than a pretty way to decorate a garden. It actually serves an important function in shading tender roots from the sun and slowing the evaporation of ground moisture. Mulch doesn't have to be expensive or fancy to work – bark, newspaper, straw, leaves, grass clippings and compost are affordable and do a great job. Just make sure to keep bark and compost a few inches away from the base of trees and shrubs to discourage insects.
Compost as mulch │ Applying compost to garden beds is a win/win. Not only are plants and soil protected from the elements, compost adds vital nutrients to the soil; increasing porosity and water holding capacity, encouraging a healthy root system. Premium STA Certified Harvest Blend Compost is the perfect choice; Naturally! Click for a map of our trusty dealers
Change how you water │ A vegetable garden can basically be watered in two ways, either at ground level or overhead. During a heat wave, overhead watering with an oscillating or other type of sprinkler head should be avoided. The combination of high temperatures and a hot sun can evaporate up to 90% of that water even before it hits the ground. A better watering solution is to use a soaker hose system, watering through channels, or hand watering the roots.
Other changes that need to be made include -
  • Increasing the watering times to twice a day until the temps dip below 90 degrees.
  • Avoid watering between 10 am and 7 pm, unless you have a soaker system or irrigation channels. Overhead watering when the sun is beating down on your plants can scald the leaves and kill them.
  • Deep water when possible. Deep watering encourages deeper root growth.
Provide shade if possible. To protect more vulnerable vegetable plants, we set up a canopy to shade tender veggies during a heat wave. If you don't own a canopy, sheets draped over 5 foot bamboo stakes can also provide some plant relief.
Plants and soil sometimes need a little extra help from their human caretakers; and periods of extreme heat and/or cold are 2 of those occasions. For more info on compost uses and benefits, visit www.GotCompost.com or Like us on Facebook.

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Affordable Summer Gardening

We’re often asked questions about gardening and compost use. Thought it might help to share some Q&A’s with you. And hey, if you have any questions you’d like answered, or just want to share your gardening stories, pleas ‘Like’ us on Facebook and post away. We’d love to hear from you!


Q: My kids want to plant a vegetable garden this summer. I’d like to get started on this project but gardens use a lot of water. Is there anything I can do to conserve water, hopefully not see an increase on my water bill and still enjoy fresh, healthy veggies from our own garden?

A: You bet! There are many ways to use water efficiently in your garden and significantly reduce your use. First, you'll want to consider what vegetables you want to grow. Peas and corn need more water, while vine plants and tomatoes require less.
Make sure to group water dependent plants together. This way, the majority of your water is directed to the areas that need it most, while keeping the rest dry. Your next step is to come up with strategies to use water more efficiently.
Drip lines and raised bed gardening are two excellent ways to conserve. Drip lines deliver water close to the base of the plant, which allows for deeper penetration and encourages the development of a strong and more extensive root system. They are easy to install and can reduce your gardening water needs up to 50 percent. Growing plants in raised beds will decrease the amount of weeds in the garden, which will draw water away from your vegetables.
Many cities offer rebates to residents and businesses taking part in water-wise landscape methods. Check out the Smart Landscape Rebate Program available in Santa Barbara County. Program requirements may vary slightly depending on your service area, so please see the specific details related to your area http://www.sbwater.org/landscape.aspx?id=446
Soil amended with compost is a great way to manage soil moisture! Growing plants in garden beds containing soil that’s been enriched with compost is another way to increase efficiency. Soil that contains compost is able to hold significantly more water than the typical California soil. Click to locate Harvest Blend Compost near you.
Harvest Blend Compost builds healthy soil; adds soil organic matter, improves soil structure and increases water holding capacity. Naturally!
For more info on compost visit www.GotCompost.com.